Long journey to the mentalist Mexican frontier, then onwards through the hills to San Cristobal....another pretty, you guessed it, colonial town!

Cool hostel with a campfire which was much appreciated when the sun disappeared and the temperature dropped right down. Seriously, it was freezing. Who knew Mexico was cold?

Had our first taste of typical tacos including a taco filled with cactus! And after the worst sushi ever, we sampled the delights of a classic tequileria - a bar with rows and rows of dozens of tequilas and salt shakers set up on every table - ugh ugh ugh!

Caught a local collectivo bus to a little town called Chamula just outside to visit the church now known as the Cola church. The reason: inside local people give bottles of coke and pepsi as offerings to the gods!! I kid you not! Damn you Coca Cola corporation.

It was actually really quite moving and emotional inside. There are no pews or seats, just dozens of shrines to various saints and virgins and hundreds upon hundreds of lit candles everywhere.

Local people, all dressed in their traditional furry blanket skirts, come in and line up rows and rows of candles on the floor in front of their chosen god before offering up their fizzy drinks or tequila and dripping it over the candles whilst praying out loud the whole time. It was pretty intense especially when one of the groups sacrificed a live chicken right there in the church!!

We had heard the most awful noise, a noise that neither of us had ever heard before, and we couldn't work out what the hell it was, until we spotted a dead chicken being laid down among the soft drink bottles. Sunday school was never this interesting.....