Ah, beautiful Nara!

Today, I pushed my feet to their very limit (I ended up limping back to the train station as I couldn't put pressure on them) but it was all worth it. After a one hour train ride through the beautiful countryside past rice paddies and mountains, I arrived at Nara and saw more white people than I had since I left Sydney, I didn't like it. Firstly, do I regret wearing jeans? Yes. It was hot, hot, hot! It made the slow wonder uphill a bit of a challenge. Alas, I walked up a packed street and dodged cars and people to stumble across a big temple, and then I turned around and saw a 5 storey pagoda and stared at it for a good 2 minutes trying to take it all in. Then, friends, I found the deer. The Sika deer are revered as they hold strong meaning in the ancient folklore of the area - and they're hella cute! The first one I met took a bite out of my map, then the next one that I sat down with kept chasing the map as I tried to hide it! I got smooshed a few times with antlers, but never enough to hurt. They were honestly such beautiful creatures, it was nice to come back to my roots and remember why I love animals so much! Plus, they totally count as wilderness! Next up, I went in search (through an ocean of people and deer) for Tadaji Temple - it supposedly had a buddah statue in it and I hadn't been to a buddhist temple yet so I figured, why not?

Let me tell you, nothing in my life has ever compared to walking past a haze of incense smoke and seeing such an enormous, power emanating figure. This buddah was over 7m tall and surrounded by smaller gold buddahs and oh my god, I can't even describe the rest. It took my breathe away (NB that could have been the incense #asthma) but I couldn't move from my spot, nor can I describe what I was feeling. I was like a deer in the headlights! It took me atleast half an hour to leave the temple, it was too glorious and I had no desire to leave...ever. Alas, I did. I wondered back out of the park, got lost again, and ended up by the Ukimido Gazebo over a small, tranquil pond. There was no one there except an older Japanese man painting the scene, I didn't disturb him. I did stop here to eat the worlds biggest apple that barely fit in my palm, and it was wonderful. No tourists, no kids - just peace. Looking across the other side of the tributary river were deer sitting in stark contrast with the bright green grass, with petals on the still river and then behind them the forest became so dense you couldn't see past them. It was like a scene from a fantasy book, I couldn't quite capture it but I did just look around and say 'Hows the serenity?' and laughed to myself.

I made my way to one more shrine, covered in moss and with the deer scattered around through a park - it was nice! Then I head back down the street and got back on the train for a well needed rest. I have to say, I could sit on trains going through the Japanese countryside for days on end and not look down once. I put on some Ray LaMontagne and just watched it all go by, it's so different but so beautiful. Much better than Cityrail! Once I got back, I finally posted my postcards and got back to the hostel.

I realised I hadn't tried Okonomiyaki yet, a dish made of a savoury pancake full to the brim with all kinds of things like cabbage and seafood. The one closest to me was only a 10 minute walk so I tried, and got lost for the better part of an hour in constant battle with my feet telling me to stop being stupid and sit the f*** down. I found it eventually - it was underground, thanks for that Google Maps. Despite the name of the restaurant 'Chibo' being written in the roman alphabet, they did not speak english and trying to get one without meat but with seafood was a true challenge. I felt awful, but both the chef and the waiter were patient and very kind! It was set up like tepanyaki and I could see him making everything, he didn't stop moving the entire time I was sitting there!! He moved so expertly, and he couldn't have been much older than me...damn overachievers. He covered mine in a special sauce mayonaise, herbs and some kind of flaky stuff and for the love of all that is good and holy, it was delicious. I've never had anything like it! Japan knows how to do food, really f***ing well. I apologised for not being able to speak Japanese, thanked them for their kindness (well, my translator app did) and with a belly full of delicious food and a beer (seriously, the beer is good smooth - I love it!) I wondered through the city of Osaka at night back to my hostel. My bag is packed, I have no real idea how I'm getting to the university but I'll make it. While I'm sad to be leaving Kyoto and Osaka, I know I'll be back and my body needs a couple of slower days to catch up. Although, there's a lot of walking on the field days when we go alpine and marine to do some research there. Ah, future Rachaels problem!

Kind people, clean places (I haven't seen ANY rubbish or graffiti anywhere) and incredible wilderness? I know Japan wasn't on my bucket list for travel, but it's opened to my eyes to how underrated a place can be if you just have to drive to seek what you want to find - for me that was nature, and I never thought I'd find it here, but I already did. I have found a lot about strength I didn't know I had, and I still have moments often of 'I'm really here, I'm in Japan'. I really love it here, I miss my family and friends a lot and look forward to skyping them and miss certain things about Australia but I'm still here and I already can't wait to get back. Don't be too excited for entries for the next 10 days as I'll be at university, mostly in a classroom all day! I'm keen to meet some Japanese students and get to know the ones from ANU better, it's still hard to believe that I've been here for a week. I love your work Japan, you're exactly what I needed. (NB feet disagree, they are figuratively not speaking to me.)

Until tomorrow!

xo Rach