Today was my fumble day. I realised I had lost my travel wallet with 30000 yen in it (under investigation), lost my train pass (again), went to 2 wrong bus stops and tripped over twice. There's always that day when travelling where things do not go your way, and that day was supposedly today but I chose to ignore it. Despite losing about $325 and with blister bound feet - I refused to let it slow me down!

Yesterday, I talked about how Robert Frost inspired me with: 'Two roads diverged in a wood and I - I took the one less traveled by, and that has made all the difference." but today, the true love of my life and deceased soul mate John Muir resonated with me once again, as he always has. John Muir has been my inspiration to keep doing what I'm doing...at uni, at life and now in travel. He once said "Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.". This was running circles in my mind as I entered Tadasu no Mori - the Forest of Correction, part of an ancient shinto shrine (Shimogamo Shrine) and consists of an ancient grove. The temples were jaw-dropping, bright orange and white and surrounded by stones and shrines. There were several stop points with small rock and moss fountains to cleanse yourself with the water which was a new, refreshing routine to take part in. Where John Muir comes in is that during several parts of my day, I was given the option to continue on my path or take a small dirt path to the side and everytime I chose the dirt path. Suddenly there was serenity, peace and no people everytime I (probably not so wisely) wondered off. I could hear the birds and the insects calling and rustling and for the first time in my life - I couldn't identify them! What a novel experience, and it only peaked my curiosity! If I had a single piece of advice from Japan so far, it would easily be - take the dirt path. Always. That is how I got to the top of 2 mountains surrounding Kyoto in the last 2 days. My feet hurt unbareably but it has been so much more than worth it. The spirit and power surrounding Tadasunomori is unequivable, and I could feel it, it was not the most notable shrine to visit but I'm glad I chose to go.

After this experience of walking through long corridors of towering green trees and stumbling on streams and shrines scattered everywhere, I chose to move on. I went back to Kyoto station before jumping on another bus and heading to Inari. In the mountain-side village of Inari is the Fushimi Inari-taisha, an enormous series of vermillion Torii gates. The gates make an unbroken path around the wards, as Inari is the god of rice, there are shrines and graves everywhere as you walk up the harem street full of street food and tourist souvenirs. It was so busy, so I took a dirt path (surprise, surprise) and ended up hiking up the mountain through the bush where there was no one else until I couldn't get futher up. It was the most calm and serene I have been in a very, very long time. I later found out this was not the climb to the peak, and time and energy discouraged me from going all the way up (although I got atleast half way up, a true feat for my level of unfitness and sore feet!) but at one point, I had a wild bamboo forest on one side of me and a towering cedar forest on the other. I don't have words to describe how I felt, or how I reacted other that smiling from eat to ear and just whispering 'well, f***' to myself. And all along a path rarely walked. I don't regret it for a minute!

After all of this, I got myself back to Kyoto city (I have officially mastered the bus system!) and chose to walk back as the sun was setting. I finally stopped at the small buddhist shrine not 200ft from my Inn, and enjoyed the view for a while. I have discovered the little Grocery mart things are A+ for value - probably not quality but I got a bento box with sashimi, apple juie, beer and a packet of chips for 8yen! I didn't believe her when she told me! That was dinner and late lunch sorted! I have dropped a few kilos since I got here with the intense walking with a pack and not eating much - its kind of nice actually! Anyway, I chose not to go out tonight, I have a lot to do to prepare leaving Kyoto tomorrow. I saw a lot of the city at night last night and my feet are strongly protesting any further action today - despite a 20 minute cold foot soak!

I think Kyoto was the best possible city to start my travels in - the food is gooooood, the streets are easy to navigate (albeit with a map) and the people are so lovely. Today on my backpath past Fushimi Inari, a woman ran into my off the beaten track and said 'Hello, and welcome to Japan!' with a huge smile on her face! I couldn't help but smile and wave back with an enthusiastic 'arigato'! It's also odd being the only white person on the buses and trains, people chose not to sit next to me and I stand out like a sore thumb at the train station - but so do the other tourists so it's kind of ok. I feel very white! I can't wait to come back to Kyoto for longer, and can't wait to see what Osaka has to offer (if not, Kyoto is only a 30 minute train ride back ;) ). Now to finish this super smooth beer, overlooking my balcony and ignoring the mess I need to fit back in my pack.

Everyday I find new challenges, both in travelling alone (it's getting a bit lonely! Hopefully will meet some people at the hostel I'm at tomorrow) and not speaking or reading the language and it is just the challenge I need. It's invigorating and it pushing all the right buttons. It's only day 3, I can't wait to see what else this incredible country has in store for me.

xo Rach

p.s. SERIOUSLY TAKE ALL THE DIRT TRACKS. (I promise I only tripped twice and that was from not enough water and too much hear)