Paul held it together for the 18 hour (921km) train journey, still with upset stomach! I had spotted some cockroaches but managed to get some sleep on the hard bed. We shared a curtained compartment with two guys from Dehli - the one on the top bunk snored in an unearthly manner. Every few minutes he would wake himself up only to resume the racket seconds later. I initially thought it was Paul and was mortified, not that he has ever made a noise like that, but he had been ill! Paul was not happy when I asked him if it was him. I got the trusty earplugs out and went back to sleep leaving Paul to a very restless night in his 5 foot long bunk. The approach to Old Dehli station told us all we needed to know about the place. The rail track was lined with rubbish dumps, slums, the usual 'morning squatters'. I half expected the capital to have some grandeur but it was squalid - even the celebrated Connaught place, western style shopping area was a mess. It was every frustration that we had suffered in the towns magnified ten-fold and on a bigger scale. Filth, scamming, touts .... the worst of humanity. Getting an auto rickshaw was a crazy undertaking - although we do have 'Tourist' written all over us! We were taken by one guy who, realising we didn't want to fall for any of his scams, proceeded to pretend his auto was broken and kicked us off far from where we had asked to be. It took several attempts just to make one journey! Paul, having been starved for days had a craving for McDonalds filet o'fish, for the protein, so we had tried to get to the branch in Connaught Place - only 2kms away from our hotel - it was like trying to get to the moon. Not an easy place to be when you are white. We looked so miserable and every person that approached us was getting the filthiest of looks, but it didn't deter them. A guy seeing our misery advised us to ignore people directing us to the Indian tourist office - the were fake tourist offices. We replied that we had no intention of going there we just needed to find McDonalds - he helpfully showed us the correct way, what a nice guy! Our hotel - Hotel Raj was the saving grace, nice helpful staff, air-conditioning and a decent restaurant. Paul weighed himself at the railway station and his diet was working! He had lost a stone or so and was now 13 and a half stone. Paul still had the upset stomach, but was eating, drinking and feeling fine. We thought it best to head for the hills, now to enjoy the cooler climes and the glorious mountains.... The weird and wonderful Chandigarh here we come..