So we checked out and bid adieu to the beatiful view..ahhh. Then caught the 09:00 Kalpa to Recong Peo Bus for 10Rp each and stayed in it at Peo for the trip to Chitkul - another 80RP each (95p) for the 80Km ride. The bus was the usual 1950s rickety knackered beast but sturdy - as we were to find out. With our luggage dragged onto the roof - by me - we hit the main NH22 (National Highway 22). Not a highway like the M1 or even A59 more like a mix between a Welsh lane and a farm track... Early on we stopped twice due to rock falls and avalanches. Luckily they were being cleared by road maintenance staff - no incident team, no cones, no diversion and no 3hr tailbacks like in the UK when a chicken is on a road... We crept on from tarmac to the bumpiest, dustiest and narrowest tracks through the deep gorges. Windows were hurriedly closed to keep out the brown dry dust which all but made visibility zero! We clunked through streams and damaged road, hit rocks and skidded through mudddy slicks but the old bus soldiered on. We dropped off and collected as ever we were the only Westerners around - admiring the natural beauty amdist the Hydro Power debacle. The journey would take around 5hrs and we hit the 35km point - Sangla Valley 2000m up, in 2hrs. Chitkul is at 3460m at the other - ie. Tibet end. The valley was stunning, we climbed from 2000m slowly up the zig-zag single lane track-cum-road and when meeting other cars head on would push them to reverse to a wider point then creep past. The driver was a seasoned pro, for a road often cited as both one of the scariest and most dangerous.. Onward and upward slowly until we hit Sangla - a small, dusty mountain town with all the charm of a tescos express.. although... I did pop out and buy 4 delicious veg. samosas from a local shop/eatery which we polished off, while the driver and conductor were grabbing a bite. We continued on with fresh local faces - most travelling the 26km or so to Chitkul. The road climbed higher and the views of snow clad peaks appeared as did the high valleys, laced with apple and other fruit trees and the fairly voluminous green and white Baspa river. It also became cooler. It was blue skies once more yet fresh. The valley was stunningly picturesque with now almost no traffic. The road went from a tarmac track to a lumpy, dusty rock/gravel one and passed through rocky plains and pine forests. We collected and dropped folks on the way, most wearing traditional local dress and the Himachal Hat. We then began the final climb from 3100m up to Chitkul. We chugged and chugged and then in the distance saw the handful of buildings which make Chitkul - population around 600. It nestled on the valley side, looking fairly bleak surrounded by these goliaths, with the icy cold green and frothy river flowing toward it from Tibet. We had reached it - after 5hrs - just 25miles from the border. Chitkul (Chhitkul/Chitkool)is last Indian town before Tibet and was an age old Indo-Tibetan trade route for goods. It has no banks, no ATMs, no mobile reception... basially nothing except some homes, farms, a bus stop and some guest houses and general store - or sheds! We dismounted - bags and all and I grabbed an Un-named guest house for 400Rp (£4.20) per night - we decanted and grabbed lunch at another local eatery. Fayre was good (Indian Curries) and tasty, although, as ever service was non-existent. We then took to exploring the river and valley as it was sunny with part cloudy skies. We walked for about 2 miles towards Tibet and then returned as the weather was turning - as we walked it began to rain and the temperature dropped to single figures. Thankfully we were togged up and it was no problem - but a reminder how fast things change up here! We grabbed a relax in our room and an early night! We awoke after a uniquely quiet night of sleep! No cars, no people, no tuk-tuks, no dogs..... heaven. We had layered 2 duvets and 2 'faux-mink' velour wraps across us and that meant a warm night even though it was very cold. We had nearly 12hrs sleep! We took tasty breakfast at our guest house - lovely porridge (tastiest yet) and toast with butter - plus chais. Then a great walk in the toasty blue sky morning, complete with gentle Alpine-esque breeze, some 8km or more through the valley Tibet-ward up to the Indo-Tibet police camp, which is the last border checkpoint which no-one can pass. It was pure picture postcard stuff at every turn - ironic as they just don't do postcards here.... We stopped by the river for a relax with just the bubbling of the water to relax us. We had a makeshift mini-picnic with water and choccie. Heavenly. We walked back via the river and a tricky walkway on the precipice, but it was fun! We relaxed after our lunch of Thalis from our guesthouse and had another early night after dinner to catch up with our lost sleep! Up early and quick brek then off to explore over the River Baspa. We took the new wooden bridge down from the bus stand/stop and then headed right towards the very visible snow line at the same altitude we were at! The path follows the river then passes deep into the Pine Forest and upwards towards the mini-valley carved by melting snow and ice from the Himalayan peaks. Another clear warm morning, we wanted an early start just in case the weather turned, as it sometimes does around 2-3pm. We started well, down hill, over the new bridge and across several melting ice springs across our path. The weather was glorious and all about crocus, silver birch and rhododehdra - together with grasses, mosses and scrub heather and herbs. We marched on following a path until a landslide had cut it in 2. We headed closer to the large stream-cum-river which headed down the valley and glistened with a turquoise water from melted snow and ice. I tested it - it was ice cold and deep plus fast moving. We were now dancing through a huge field of boulders and rocks - many unsteadily balanced on one another - only feet from the river. The rocks and boulders here are not all igneous or metamorphic or just black or white, no, they are all types and all shades and colours. All washed down and scraped away on the glaciers journey through the Himlayas. We looked for a place to cross as the landslides had destroyed our planned route. We spotted a 'bridge' - or rather 2 branches trimmmed and strapped together across the raging river. We girded our loins and I crossed first - precariously with the usual backpack of goodies - plus camera etc. on! Sheryl then edged across while I took her photo - her little knees were quivering afterwards. We took a picnic rest and then onward and upwards now through silver birch forests with rhubarb growing wild and crocus and small alpine flowers in purples, yellows and white in abundance. The plan was to get as high as possible - we reached 3725m - our record! We also reached the Snow Line - with ice to boot! The path - using the term loosely - had finished and we planned to drop lower to the river (raging icy torrent) and cross using rocks rather than the 'twig-bridge'. We edged lower to the water line on our behinds as the bowl shaped area we were now in had rock falls and landslides at every point of exit. We searched for a crossing to no avail. I then spent some minutes looking for a relatively safe path (climb) which minimised teh risk of us slipping or worse still bringing boulders down on top of us! I spotted a possible and we edged precariously upwards - at points I stoppe and dug out soil to reveal rocky footholds before planning the next move. After a few hairy moments I reached the grassland - then winched Sheryl up too - safe! Not something we will be doing again soon... We then retraced steps and rocks back towards the twig bridge looking for an alternative, but there wasn't one. I crossed first again then Sheryl edged over - safe at last. It was now 12:15 and it was very warm and still clear blue skies. We slowly edged our way back to Chitkul, for lunch, joking about being alive - but in all seriousness it would be so very easy to add to the statistics of 'missing in the mountains' that happen all too often here. Lesson learned we planned for tomorrows adventure with less 'excitement' while grabbing a Thali and chilling. Up early and after porridge we discussed plans with our guest house owner and took 1 of his recommendations - a hike up to see the distant mountains. We set off up through Chitkul village past the old houses and Gompa. The water passes through man made channels here and the roads/alleys are covered in Cow manure! Not so idyllic. Within 10 minutes we were following a dry river bed of rocks, then onward to rough heather and scrub, with dusty soil, then up further to 3800m. The land got more barren and cooler - although with clear blue skies it was lovely. The views were, as ever, astounding. We could see further now and new peaks appeared, as Chitkul became sparkling specks in the distance below. It got tough after 3900m - no discernable trail, we zig-zagged to maintain our footing on the dusty scrub. I looked down and saw 4005m (almost 13,250ft) on my Casio. We stopped and grabbed water, chocolate and a well-earned rest. We could see the beauty of the peaks and glacial valleys - very restful. The way down was tricky but with my 'inbuilt GPS' I found the route and we got back safely. We were aching from the tough climb, but a thali soothed us! Sheryl read and I cleaned the tons of dust from the Nikon D300, then we had chip butties and Dhal for tea! Next day we planned an easier format as I have been getting no protein (eggs, meat etc.) just living off carbs. I am thinner around the waist/torso but much stronger from the punishing walks/treks (see photo!) We walked over the river heading Tibet-ward along a boulder strewn meadow. It was a pleasant undulating walk through Birch trees, meadow, boulder fields, ice packs (yes!), small streams and dusty paths. We had a 4 mile or so walk and back in tranquility and saw some lovely flora and fauna (see pic of bird, flower and our catchily named 'Tibetan Hamster'). We also saw packs of over-weight Indian Middle-classes, mother, father and kids all waddling from their 4wd 5 metres to the river for some action photos - then back in 4wd to cafe and out for a drink/eat - really 'doing' Chitkul. It is said 'Travel broadens the mind...' perhaps finished with '.. helping you love or hate cultures you never knew existed'? So we had Indian lunch, then relaxed as the weather clouded over and the temp. dropped and wind rose. Evening was early dinner and sleep. Sunday was fine once more and we took an upper valley wall path up-valley. It was a stony 'path' interspersed with rock falls and uncomfortably hard on the feet. The sunny, warm, blue skies were balanced with a cool breeze from the west. We noticed the trees on the valley sides which were brown when we arrived had turned green and were in bud after just a week. We walked on enjoying the clear vista, the incessant smells of various herbs, the butterflies, birds and the subdued roar of the turquoise river in the background. What a pleasant Sunday morning. The local farmers were using pairs of oxen on yokes with manual tillers to plough furrows in the dusty arid fields between the huge scree and boulders. After lunch I walked around Chitkul village catching up on local life - see the pics! Early night as up for 05:30 for bus to Rekong Peo!