We arrived in Cusco the day before the national election in which they pose an alcohol ban that starts the day before and goes through to the night of the election!!!

Fortunately the restaurant we ate at were happy to ignore this and serve us alcohol anyway, but we stayed out of the bars...

But almost more important than alcohol ... I'd heard you could get cheap massages in Cusco!

I was in a lot of pain from no yoga & sitting in cramped transport most days so as soon as we finished our orientation tour of the city, I headed straight out to find a massage place!!!

The massage ladies stand on every corner (and no not the kind in skimpy get up leaning against poles!) so it didn't take me long to find one!  

I headed off with the first one I spoke with, and straight in for my full body, 1 hour massage for $30 soles (approx $10 AUD!).

An hour later I was completely blissed out!  Best massage I'd had for ages (first one in south America) and was feeling soo good!

I gave my new best friend Marciela a kiss and hug goodbye and promised her I'd be back again ... and was for a variety of treatments just about every day until Inca!

As half our group spent the few days pre-Inca trail visiting the Amazon, the other half of us just lazed around Cusco. (My tour does Amazon in Ecuador).

I mostly spent my free time shopping, having massages, getting my hair highlighted (shouldn't have bothered!) & treatments, and caught up on uploading pics to net.

I did also do some cultural stuff and went to check out the Inca ruins at Sacsaywaman (not to be mistaken for 'sexy woman'!).

A few of us also went for dinner at 'Fallen Angel'. A funky restaurant with bathtub aquarium tables with glass tops covering them, and other amazing decor. Food wasn't too bad either!

Unfortunately no one was keen to go out for drinks so was forced to behave ... That is until the others got back from the jungle and I made up for lost time on our last night in Cusco before heading out to see the Sacred Valley ... Then the following day starting Inca.

So i awake the morning after our bug night out with absolutely no recollection of getting home the previous evening and feeling decidedly ill!!!!

Last thing I remember was sambaing in a place they were calling the 'shot bar' with a couple of the girls, my tour leader and another tour leader (who Dave I work with had on his tour if South America).

Turns out I probably left not long after my memory fails me, apparently suddenly announcing to all that I was going home and then refused their offers to walk me their stating 'I'm a big girl - I can look after myself!'. 

I must have managed to walk back to the hotel, ring the door to get in and get my key from reception all by myself - I wonder if I also did it in Spanish?

So started the day of the worst hangover of my holiday ... It didn't feel quite as bad as the altitude sickness day, but then got to spend half that day in bed ...  

But this day we were going non stop ... We went to another animal park with pumas, an Andean hairless doggy, a condor, macaw etc etc (took photos then headed to toilets as too ill to continue!).  

Saw the ruins at Pisac - amazingly spectacular but I was too dehydrated as couldn't keep water down, so didn't make it up the hill to the top of the ruins! Wasn't sick as thought it would be disrespectful puking behind the 500 year old stone walls....

By lunchtime I'd managed to keep down a mylanta to fix the damage the red wine, pisco sour, jack daniels, fernet & coke ... Oh and then tequila shot (only remembered that as found a pic of me having one on my camera!) had done the nite before - hmm wonder why i was ill?!

At lunch I finally managed to keep down some real lemonade and quinoa soup. What a great hangover fix :-)

 In the afternoon we went to a local market, and then by the time we got to the ruins at Ollyantambo I was feeling a whole heap better and climbed the many steps to the top to view and learn about the sun temple.

After this we farewelled the bus and those not doing the Inca Trail and headed to our guest house.

We had dinner at the Heart Cafe which donates profits to supporting the local community in various ways.

An earlier night to recover from previous evening and hoping to make a full recovery before starting Inca Trail next morning!!!

Inca trail day 1 -

We were met at our guest house at 8.30am by our two guides, Ray (who had also guided us the previus day) and Eduardo. 

We'd all been busy weighing the duffel bags issued to us two days previous, to ensure they didn't exceed the 5km limit, then moving stuff to our day pack if need be.

My day pack weighed 5kg alone from wet weather trousers, jacket, sunscreen, insect repellant, scarf, snacks, water, etc!!!

From there we drove to the 82km point and the start of the Inca Trail.

We were briefed on what the day would entail, bought some more water and myself a red bandana to keep the cold off my chest (and once again make me look like a train driver in the photos!), then moved onward to the control point where we provided a receipt given to us by our guide, along with showing our passport and receiving the optional passport stamp.

We then proceeded to the landmark Inca Trail sign for our group photo!

After all the preparation and fluffing about, we then started the trek at about 10am.

Day one was fairly easy with ups and downs (known as 'Inca Flat'!) but nothing too taxing.

We also got to see some Inca Ruins along the way.

There were fairly long stops along the way for photos or toilet breaks (squat toilets) and to buy water or snacks from the vendors who would be waiting along the trail for us and the porters to pass by.

Each porter by law is only allowed to carry a maximum of 25kg, but when some of these guys only measure about 4ft tall and carry packs as tall ad them - what they do is really outstanding work!

We were requested to tip them $120 soles ($40 AUD) at the end of the trip, which is well and truly deserved and there is about 16 of them to 12 of us.

We were amazed when we stopped for lunch to find a tarp laid out for us to rest our bags on and a tent set up with tables and stools on which to eat our lunch!

Lunch was delicious! Soup, salad and spaghetti, followed by coca leaf tea and a rest.

After we headed off and left the porters to pack it all up, throw it on their backs and manage to get ahead of us so that we arrived at the end of our walk (about 3.30) to all our tents set up, and another meals tent set up again with tables and chairs.

The last bit of the walk on day one had been hard, but we'd been doing good time so pushed further so there would be less hill on day two!

Shortly after arriving, they brought us some warm water around to our tents to wash off our faces, and then we met for an afternoon tea of biscuits, popcorn and hot chocolate!

Ray taught us how to play the card game 's***head', and then dinner was served - soup, vegetables, rice and chicken drumsticks. Desert was a pineapple pudding with Muna tea.

After a briefing on what the next day would include, we all headed off to bed about 9pm.

Inca trail day 2 -

Wake up call was at 6am. A porter comes to each tent with a cup of hot water and coca leaves if you wish to put them in your tea.

He then came back 10 minutes later with a bowl of luke warm water to wash ourselves with.

It was nice to only have to pack up clothes and sleeping bags and leave the tent to the porters who were ready waiting for us to get out so they could pack it up!

Our breakfast tent was a welcome site and had a delicious breakfast of toasted buns, pancakes, porridge, fruit salad and coffee!

One of the girls decided at this point she would have to head back as was very sick with tonsillitis and recurrent glandular fever. Our second guide would accompany her on the long walk back to the start of the Inca Trail & onward to Ollyantaytambo.

After breakfast we had a ceremony of our porters introducing themselves to us and us introducing ourselves to them.

There were various ages and level of experience and the youngest 19 and oldest 54, the longest experience being 7 years.

We started the walk at 7.30, setting of with our morning tea packs of mandarin, chocolate soda bars and two lollies! Leaving our porters to clean up our breakfast dishes and pack up the tents, tables & stools.

The walk was uphill all the way from our campsite to dead woman's pass, a rise of 1200 metres straight up!

The first section was hard but not as much as I expected and managed to avoid being last person!  It was expected to take us until 9.30 but we go there just after 9.

This section was definitely helped along by popping the iPod on and cranking up the 'Wild FM' albums ... Although this meant breathing breaks were also time for an impromptu break out into a boogie (i cant help it when i listen to that music!!!). I think the lack of oxygen was loosening my inhibitions and the music had me feeling like I was in a nightclub!

At the end of the section, a quick 10 minute break.

The morning of day two is the last chance to buy from the ladies along the trail, so had to stock up on water here for the remainder of the day.

The next bit which was supposed to be easier except last 20 minutes ... I actually found the worse!

We were now up in the clouds and higher in altitude so by the end was only walking a couple of meters up then stopping to catch my breath! No more dancing!!!

As the last person panting up the mountain for this leg, I was accompanied and encouraged the whole way by our friendly guide Raymer.  

He is an enlightened man and fortunately hung back and then would catch up occasionally when I stopped for a breather ... I'm glad he wasn't on my tail the whole way or would have felt disheartened :-(

At Dead Womens Pass, another short stop to catch our breath, have a snack and take a group pic, and then back down the other side.

This I was faster at, arriving at our camp just behind the leaders.

Going down is sooo much easier!

We all arrived 2 hours early at midday!  

So yes day 2, known as the hardest day, was hard! But pretty short at only 4.5 hours from camp to camp.

Our porters had only arrived just before us but tents were setup, and only a short wait for our lunch of soup, beef & chicken slices, salad & quinoa style fried rice.

A nice nap in the arvo.

Afternoon tea at 4.30pm of popcorn, sao style biscuits with butter & jam and a hot cocoa.

A few games of cards (playing 's***head').

Dinner at 6.30pm. Soup, meatballs, fried rice, broccoli and wedges, with chocolate pudding & banana for desert!

Then the cook sent in a pitcher of mulled wine! What a man!

Food was amazing and sounds like a lot but we were all so starved from the hike!!!

Bed at 8.30pm.

All clothes worn to protect from cold as 0 degree temps expected!!! A lot lower then the 5 degrees the previous evening!

Inca Trail Day 3

We recieved our wake up tea but 5.30 am start today!

Omelette for breakfast and then we were on our way about 6.30, with our apple and chocolate bar lunch pack, with another two lollies!

First part of trek was steep with 300 metres of steps!  That was hard to take but once at the top we had a chance to stop to see some ruins and get briefed on them.  

Downhill for a while again then up ... Then down then up ...

Whole day went this way until the end when it was all big steps down to camp.

We had lots more breaks though stopping to see the ruins.

Unfortunately the weather did not stay as nice as previous days and just before lunch we had to done our wet weather gear and wear it for most of the remainder of the day!

We arrived to camp about 4pm then had another 20 minute break before venturing out to see another ruin!

Didn't spend much time there but practically ran back for a hot shower! It's the only one along the trail ...

it was nice to feel clean, too bad about wearing smelly dirty clothes again though!

More popcorn for afternoon tea, an early dinner & early to bed so we could wake at 3.45am.

Inca Trail Day 4

Another restless night & woke early (just after 3) as other campers were already awake & moving past our tent.

It was still raining as it had been the previous evening when we went to bed, so dressed in water proof gear.

No wake up hot tea but some served at the breakfast table, along with a lovely pancake with a dribble of dulce de leche (caramel).

After breakfast we waited in the communal area til 5.15am then headed to last control point which opened at 5.30. (We had to be up early as porters only have one train they a day they can get with luggage and it leaves at 5.45!).

From the control point we went non stop to the sun gate ... Powering along and overtaking other groups - not even stopping to shed layers but removing them as we went!

The rain had stopped and the lower altitude meant the weather was warmer and I could breathe!!!  

We only stopped on one hill for a breather and a drink, for all of a minute, and 5 metres later realised we'd stopped just before the entrance of the sungate and the first view of Machu Pichu!!!

It was crowded here with all taking photos! We met out group and had our pic taken, then proceeded down to the rock where we were to make our offerings.

A previous guide had advised us to take a rock from the shores of lake Titicaca, so had that, and 2 rocks from the start of the trail and some coca leaves to offer.

Made a couple of wishes with all this and made a rock pile with the rest of the group.

From there we continued down to the main section of Machu Pichu ... For some reason we had to go out then back in again? 

At this point we met the rest of our group who hadn't done the trail. They gave us congratulatory hugs even though we probably smelt really really bad and looked feral!

After a short break we had our guided tour of Machu Pichu which finished about 11, and we then spent another few hours taking photos, exploring and doing another short walk to the Inca Bridge.

Machu Pichu was absolutely incredible and recommend to anyone to see in their life time.

It was still getting finished in the 1500s when the Spanish invaded Peru, and was therefore most likely abandoned about this time as the Incas did their best to destroy the trails leading there, so the Spanish would not find it. 

It wasn't rediscovered by foreigners until 1911.

You can tell from the photos taken earlier last century that a lot of work had been done in restoration of Machu Pichu (the old photos reminded me of the temples in Angkor Wat in Cambodia - covered in trees and the bricks dark from the weather).

Seeing it now it looks like you've walked back in time.  It's the perfect village and the guide points out the living quarters, food storage houses, temples, sun dial, agricultural terraces etc ...

It really is an amazing place, and being there feels completely surreal! 

As usual you're battling with the crowds and even coming by Inca Trail you don't avoid that!  I think only 200 can do the trail every day, but you're still beaten there by the bus loads of tourists who get there before you from Aguas Caliente!

After Machu Pichu we went back to Aguas Caliente by bus ourselves.  Had a nice big steak lunch and chocolate cake desert!  Then caught the train back to Ollayantambo, then had to get a bus to Cuzco from there. (Train couldn't go all the way as haven't fixed the track still  after a landslide last year.

Back at Cusco at about 9.30. Our guide has a challenge where you can't sleep for 24 hours and have to go party til 3.45am the next morning.

After a Maccas dinner (my first in South America & we're certainly making up the calories that we burnt off!) we went for drinks at Mythology then suprised ourselves when we realised despite how painful our legs were feeling, we could stop our seated couch dances & hit the floor!

We ended up heading home about 1.30pm so just short of the challenge.

It was nice to have a small sleep in the next day (although wasn't really one when didn't sleep til about 3am!).

I went for a treat brekky of French toast & maple syrup with one of the couples. (Yep think I've put on any weight the hike may have lost!).

After that went for a nice massage and facial - 1.5 hours for all if $15-$20 AUD!

My calves & front of thighs were aching a bit from the walk but oh so nice to feel like I've done some exercise, as have done so little since leaving home!  I miss yoga but not disciplined enough to do it regularly here and we're always so short on time :-(

After I went to interet to upload photos (this is still my back up method seeing each time Ive tried to back up to disc I've failed, and the hard drives I've seen here are over $100 AUD for 320GB!!!).

Went to the plaza to see if I could watch the pre-Easter parade where they carry the statue of the black Jesus to the cathedral.

The seats in the cafe were reserved, so instead I went to one in the back streets and watched the procession on Tv!

When I left, the parade still hadn't got to the main Plaza but crowds were thick and it was freezing cold, so headed back to hotel to get ready for dinner instead.

It was another one at the Fallen Angel but this time with more people from the group, which was nice.

I didn't stay late or go out afterwards though, as was feeling very tired as now have sore throat & a dodgy tummy!

Woke the next morning and went for brekky at Jacks with some of the group.

Went for a look around the Inca museum, the highlight being the mummies!

Then had another massage before meeting the group for our airport transfer and afternoon flight to Arequipa.