Good night sleep at La Mare Aux Oiseaux. Overall a wonderful meal but room rather odd and quirky. Iron but no board, plastic cups. Nowhere to hang towel. Headed off in semi-rain to the start of our Loire run. Heading for the mouth of the Loire at St Nazaire, we banked the huge bridge arching over the inlet spying half built cruise ships as we crossed. Feeling the pinch from lack of underwear (not literally) we headed to the pretty seaside resort of Pornic and Richard's French scored a bullseye as Madam in the boulangerie not only sold us two wonderful baguette sandwiches and pain au chocolat but also the location of the nearest laundrette. Another very helpful Madame helped us fill the huge machine with our clothes, then told us the alarming news that they close in an hour for 2 hours so to come back in three hours. Much frowning from us and she agreed that she would finish them in her lunch so to come back in 45 minutes.
Into town, wonderful and sophisticated. Amazing live seafood selling reassuringly like hotcakes on the harbours edge. Crustacea writhe and glisten looking both delicious and revolting at the same time. Have a coffee on quayside and buy madam a gift before collecting our laundry. She has done an excellent job and is thrilled by the gift but even more thrilled by Richard's great thanks in French. I watch Richard with great pride.
On to Nantes and our first Chateau in the centre of town. Recently renovated, it lacks the fairytale feel of a typical chateau but is interesting all the same. Great views of Nantes from the walls. Interesting Art Noveau dome of a nearby biscuit factory is another attraction. Head back to car and drive to our second chateau stay in Durtal, northeast of Angers. We weren't prepared for how authentic this stay would be. The Chateau loomed high above the small, pretty town with a rather ominous presence. Entering we were greeted by a slight French chap in his 20s who had great command of English but a rather heavy accent, so we had to concentrate to understand. Our room was superb, by the courtyard and looking through huge windows over the town below.
The young chap insisted on a tour that we attended, joined shortly after by another English speaking couple. We viewed the dungeons and kitchens which had a huge fireplace with two cubbyholes where servants could hide from the heat as they turned the spit. Into a huge gallery with half revealed frescoes on the wall. And into the pepperpot towers revealing the alterations for the better and worse that had been done over the years. He seemed genuinely interested in our interest and told the story of the chateau well. Jokingly I commented about the chateau being his and it turns out that in effect it was or certainly his parents, one of whom is an architect and seemed to make a living restoring similar chateaux over France. Quite remarkable. Off to town to a little creperie for we were told a good steak. We were eyed suspiciuously by locals who attended to their meals silently as we entered only to be warmly 'Bon Soired' by them as they finished their meals. We ordered a Kir, some wine which was very good and two steaks that were almost raw (as is the French way) and tough as old boots. Tasty though but I would imagine rather like chewing a hospital dressing. It was a chore to finish. On the menu we saw grand marnier souffle which we ordered and hoped would make up for the steak. What arrived was orange ice-cream. Richard made his disappointment clear to the Madam who bustled off with a wave of her hand. The other couple from the chateau who were rating their meal on the other side of the room giggled and said 'always play safe and get the creme brûlée'. Madam returned later all smiles and we both shared blame. We tipped her probably more than we should.
Back to the chateau and magically a re-enactment had started about the history of the area. The courtyard was filled by the whole town. We fortunately could watch it from an upstairs window. Rather impenetrable, it was very professional and the young son of the owner from earlier was anxious that we watched some of it. What a magical day. France is starting to get me under it's spell. This stay has been remarkable because of the 'otherness' of it all. I've never experienced such authenticity and hospitality such as this. Not chocolates on the pillow but generousness of spirit.