After 5 hours of mountain roads, with a driver that spat, burped and snorted for the said 5 hours, and no signs whatsoever of snowy himalayan peaks, we finally arrived in Rishikesh on the banks of the river Ganga (or Ganges, you choose).

Rishikesh is the home of Yoga in India, it is scattered with ashrams everywhere and heaps of westerners that come here to cleanse their souls and find themselves but really what they find is a cold beer in the evening just like any other less spiritual tourist and the thing they should really cleanse is their feet and armpits, seriously!

We didn't do much in Rishikesh, but we ended up doing quite a lot of people watching, be it the locals bathing in the river, the fake and real sadhus, the dread-locked stoners that seems to have all the answers, the truly religious Hindus and their beautiful evening ceremonies by the river.

It was interesting, it was relaxing but after 3 days it was time to move on. We were really eager to get ourselves to Corbet Tiger Reserve an see some feline action!

Next: Ramnagar