We follow John and Dee's directions to the nearest HO-HO [Hop on Hop off] stop. The bus has no ramp but the driver helps us on and Nick squeezes in beside a large pushchair. We have an altercation with a German family who has taken over the lower deck, two adults, a child and a handbag occupying 6 seats between them. Ali ask for the handbag to be moved twice with no response so she passes the bag to the mother who rants and slaps Ali's arm. Before Ali can retaliate the courier arrives to check what's wrong, and Ali sits where the bag was, next to the child. The child cries and rushes over to its mother so Ali has the whole seat. When they want to get off they mutter and yammer at us, trying to lift their pram over Nick's chair. If they'd been polite we'd have helped.

The HO-HO takes us around some of the sights before we alight at the marketplace. It is a huge covered area with masses of foodstuff on the ground floor, with a large gallery above which houses clothing and souvenir stalls and an aisle of street cuisine. We choose a variety of dishes and lemonade and eat at one of the chest high tables. From the gallery we can see the hall's structure, Victorian style cast- and wrought-iron pillars and framework with wood and glass roof. Originally it was a wholesale market with a railway to the river but the rails were removed and it was renovated into its current state.

We come out and walk around trying to find the next HO-HO, the first we find won't take us as it's full of prams. We walk a bit more and find some lovely ice-creams. Then there is constant confusion and disagreement over the HO-HO stops, which buses we can use and which number stop we are at.

In the end we've had enough and get a taxi back.

Nick vows never again to waste money on HO-HOs. They promise accessible buses but these have no ramps, you get one ride then there is never room and the window sill is head level from the wheelchair so you see very little.

Nick is done in with the noise and foul air of the city and the day's frustration so stays in the van to rest while the others go to the restaurant where there is traditional Hungarian music and dancing, and all come back pickled.