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The phrase 'another bright sunny morning' is getting repetitive, so consider it our privileged norm unless otherwise stated.
We leave at 10:40 heading generally south and for a few miles our journey takes us very close to the Bosnian border as it climbs high through thick woods growing out of reddish rock. Further on, the woods thin out and large peaks loom ahead. As we climb higher the grass turns yellow, with scrubby trees and bushes and a variety of flowers. It looks like savannah, very dry but bursting into bloom while there is water about, and near Udbina there is a large, fenced off area with a small graveyard, young trees, a few derelict tanks and lots of warning signs. Whether it is still mined we cannot say, but there are other relics of the war here, like a bombed church with rebuilt walls and caved-in farm buildings. Rounded hills have patches of bare, grey sandstone and even the layout of our last campsite suggested a couple of craters rather than deliberate landscaping. We stop overlooking a large rising plain typical of the terrain from which the likes of Brian Bowen and Kate Adie filed their reports twenty-odd years ago. Today all is serene, but the heavy lorries winding along these roads are enough to reflect the difficulties of the aid-convoys which included a few British truckers.
Soon after lunch we pick up the toll road which continues across the grasslands until we catch our first glimpse of Adrian's attic glistening below. From here we see more of what we expected Croatia to be like; white limestone with dark green shadows of trees. The motorway twists and flows along the coast and through tunnels, one 6km long, until we leave it near Sibenik and drive the last few miles along narrow roads to our camperstop. The [obviously incorrect] co-ordinates stop us in a lane between back gardens so we pull off into a restaurant car park, where a pig is roasting over wood outside, and look for alternative.
N+G buy some cherries from a farm stall while Ali finds an olive farm up in the hills so we reprogramme and set off, and guess what? We see a Lidl and have to go in. A bit further on we stop for fuel and just as we leave the garage we see huge flashes of lightening and the sky goes black. As we climb inland great streaks of light hit the mountain tops as we pass huge plantations of olive trees. The last few miles wind down through a gorge and across a bridge over the river near the Krka waterfall and we hear thunder and the first few drops of rain plop on the windscreen.
We reach the olive farm at Skradin just before the rain gets heavy. The thunder and lighting carries on for another hour or so before we start preparing dinner, a fritatta to use up leftovers which we name the Skradin omlette.
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