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I began this entry as we sat in the ferry terminal lineup. With the sun beating down we took time to enjoy our last day on the Emerald Isle. Booking an evening ferry gave us lots of time to explore yet more steep twisty side roads along the Coastal Drive. There were castles where we didn’t expect them, though by now we have learned to look for them at each head land and craggy outcrop. Sheep and cows reluctantly drag their heavy, possibly whiskey fortified, bulk off the narrow paths I gingerly drive down.
A smoggy kind of morning mist hangs on the horizon, this grayish mist takes on a yellowish hue the closer we get to Belfast.At the end of this three week journey we have not been to Derry nor will we see Belfast but we have seen Ireland.The news tells us the price of a house here is down 50% in the last few years. Seventeen percent of businesses are closed and many more contemplating taking the same action. The sluggish (almost stopped) economy and high employment added to the wet spring have furthered business woes.Though we’ve watched little TV it seems most shows are either news or ridiculous reality TV. Ridiculous because people agree to show abcessed body parts or their disgusting eating habits… I’m sure there was more but we seemed to think the off button and a good book was the better option.As in many countries we’ve visited, even back home, people want to lose themselves in shows that make their lives look good?! With the closed shops, concern over the EU and the austerity vote coming at the end of the month… maybe (un)reality shows are a better option.Anyway we are now in the land of haggis, whisky (without the e) and tartans. Before I get on to the beauty of Scotland I have to tell you about the ferry. We took the fast ferry from Larne to Troon. When it first pulled up it looked tiny compared to the big P&O ferry heading across on the more southerly route. Not sure how this ship could hold so many cars but I was about to find out. Now our car was first on the ship which meant I had no one to give me any indication of what I was supposed to do except for the dozen or so men stationed at the corners. I’ve been on a lot of ferries but never have I had to drive up a ramp, round a circle, up another ramp, round another circle, up again and then down and around before coming to a stop. Those dozen men waved batons and yelped directions that sounded like “Crank it hard, you twit, and keep going”…. but I’m sure the must have been more polite! Fenders and side mirrors intact, we made it. Good thing the car was already on the down ramp when the staff announced that we “Commence Maneuvering”.So with comments like “Too good to be Troon” or “ Car Troon” going on in the car (see what I have to put up with!?) we drove through this quaint port town to find the B&B I had booked for the night. At first glance Scotland seems completely different from Ireland. The dark brick multi chimnied row houses seem kind of oppressive at fist glance. Not sure if it was the sunshine or a new sense of adventure but soon I began to really like the architecture. Now, if you want an amazing B&B in Troon which is sure to start your Scottish experience off well, book in to Sandhill House B&B. Set next to a golf course (of course) the historic home has a regal past and is now a delightful place to stay. It is not expensive, in fact as we drove through the park like setting we thought we must have the wrong place.After a good sleep, a walk through the grounds and a delicious breakfast (fresh smoked salmon on egg scramble!) we headed south to Culzean Castle.Yet another stunning cliff side location on the Firth of Clyde this 15th century castle is beautifully restored. Spent some time wandering around the castle and the grounds before heading east. It was a good idea to spend a couple of days making our way to Edinburgh. The rolling green countryside is a confusing network of connecting roadways that make if feel like you have been driving for hours and only going a few kilometers….especially when you look at a map and you’re still not far from Glasgow. Anyway, before we settled in the delightful village of Peebles we had managed to take a few scenic routes stopping along the way to tour New Lanark. This former mill town is situated on the River Clyde. The lovely stone buildings were once a thriving center producing wool that was exported around the world. On this day it was full of tourists but, more importantly, there was a wedding going on. As we wondered down the walkway the piper sent his haunting music up to us. Then, when we met him, he spent some time giving us information on the area. Very friendly man with time to kill before the bride and groom needed his services one more time. Later we saw him again as the bridal party were going out to get pictures taken. How those ladies managed the cobblestones in 4 inch heels I’ll never know.That night we spent in Peebles, another lovely riverside village. It was getting late on his bank holiday weekend and we hadn’t seen many B&B’s along the way so we decided to pull in to a hotel. Well, did we pick the right one! Another Faulty Towers look alike, the Park Hotel was a stately old place with charm and delicious food. For a pretty good price we got (a delicious) dinner and breakfast with our room. Shane and I had a room complete with an area for reading as well as an alcove for a writing desk and an ornate vaulted ceiling. Dorth’s was lovely as well. Walking around Peebles we found the old Abbey before wandering through the streets and along the River Tweed. Lovely way to spend the end of our first day in Scotland.Next day was the day for the Abbey tours starting off with Melrose Abbey. This is where Robert the Bruce’s heart is buried, so they say. Taking advantage of the audio tour of this beautiful ruin (if that makes sense) was the perfect way to start the day. From Melrose we went on to Dryburgh and Jedburgh Abbeys as well as Smailholm (where Robert Burns spent some time - though I have no idea how he managed those stairs while recovering from Polio) before finding our way to the east coast.St. Abb’s Head is a tiny fishing village next to (yet another) craggy cliff with lovely views. Not easy to drive around but Shane and I are now sharing the driving again so it takes the pressure off.We were six minutes late to see Tantallon Castle as we drove along the waterfront towards Edinburgh, still we were able to see it from afar. Another beautiful setting with Bass Rock jutting out of the water just north of the castle.Then it was on to Edinburgh. The GPS took us right through the center of town as the most direct route to Comely Bank and our self catering unit for the next three nights. Everything was just what we expected and more. A lovely two bedroom walk up within walking distance to Edinburgh Castle and not far from a great grocery store. Bright and early the next day we were off to the Castle in the hot sun. Had a great tour (and a whisky tasting) before heading down the Royal Mile with the thousands of other tourists. With the sun out it seems the number of tourist have multiplied…it’s that or the bank holiday. All I know for sure is that it was much nicer the next day when we returned to the area. Edinburgh is an easy city to get around and very friendly even with all the road work going on right now as well as the preparations for the Queen’s Jubilee Celebration.We examined the side streets, drank local beer, ate well, shopped a little and gawked (and walked) a lot!! Good way to spend a couple of days in the city. If you’re not gawking at the crown jewels or the ‘Stone of Destiny’ or the tartan clad hawkers on the Royal Mile, you can spend time just soaking up the atmosphere of this very cosmopolitan city. There are parks scattered throughout the city. Green spaces where you can relax and even a hill (Holyrood Park) where you can climb to get better views of the city below. Tomorrow we head north to see where my Father’s family originated. All we know for sure is that they are somehow connected to the MacLaren Clan.
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Niki Ganie Beautiful sunshine you're getting! Nice pictures and great story as usual! :)