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A Loch is a Lake but sometimes it’s an inlet or a Firth or maybe a Sound. With that kind of information it can be a challenge driving around Scotland. But drive we did. Heading north from Edinburgh our first stop was a visit to the Falkirk Wheel. Now this amazing feat of engineering lifts boaters 35 meters in the air so they can continue down their leisurely way on canal boats to the River Forth which leads to the Firth of Forth which makes me wonder…. When is a river a canal and how wide do you have to be to be called a Firth?? But I digress…the Wheel is quite something to watch. Just a short walk from the wheel there are remains of a Roman Fort as well as Antonine’s Wall which is actually not a wall but a big ditch. We were fortunate to have a school class there. Listening to the teacher explain what we were all seeing made us realize again how lucky kids are when you can take a day trip to ancient sites instead of just reading about them in books.Back on the road our next stop was Stirling Castle. Again we were fortunate to have a wonderful tour guide and this time no students. The guide was funny and very engaging as he rolled his rrrr’s and his eyes while telling you the history of this amazing place. Though this was home to Mary Queen of Scots as well as a few other notables over the centuries, my favourite memory of the place was where they were recreating wall tapestries. The intricate work takes 4-5 people up to two years to complete. Well, perhaps my other favourite memory was the genial guide putting his arm around my sister as he answered her questions about the castle.Then it was on to Fife and the village of Markinch. Before I left home I researched my father’s family and found they originated in this area of Scotland. My father was 5th generation Canadian and they immigrated from northern Ireland (having left Scotland to work in the area around Antrim). There were still people with his name in the phone book and there is a lot of information contained in the history of the Fife. Dorothy and I spent some time in the local library with thanks to the librarian for the help she gave us. After spending the night in a lovely old hotel near the water we set off to see St. Andrews in the absolutely pouring rain. Still those crazy golfers were out there slogging it out on the course. St. Andrews is a very pretty town, it’s just too bad the rain was so heavy or we would have spent more time there. We did venture down an alley to see the area where a mill was located that was owned by members of my father's family.... as well as taking pictures of the old Abbey. Then it was off through Dundee north to Belmoral Castle. Again it was raining heavily so we chose not to do the tour. A pity, really, but we had miles to go before we slept.Eventually we found our way to a B&B near Keith. This in itself is amazing because there was a road diversion which sent us on a wild goose chase as we followed the signs and the GPS' directions. That ensured that we would wind up right back at the first turn where the “Road Diversion” sign was still prominently placed in the middle of the road. Eventually we made it to Keith where we wound down a number of very narrow trails before coming across the B&B we had phoned and reserved. You meet the nicest people at B&B’s and in the most unusual places! The woman who runs this one works at one of the local whisky (no e) distilleries and gave us some great information. So, with that in hand, we headed out the next day to taste Scotch Whisky. Remember, I am certified as a taster from Bushmills so you just can’t mess with my refined sense of taste. However, the taste test at Strathisla Distillery was truly a test, especially when you take the first tour of the day. Now I have to say I prefer their 18 year old whisky to the one I bought in Ireland., figures because it is much more costly. This distillery is one of the most picturesque and one of the oldest…if you’re going to pick one to tour in Scotland I would suggest this is the one you choose.With whisky in our bellies and sun in the sky we headed north to take the coastal route through lovely little fishing villages, past beautiful sandy beaches and craggy cliffs. We stopped to see Spynie Castle, took a picture at Dufus Castle (for a friend), through Elgin to Sueno’s Stone. Sueno’s Stone is an intrically carved Pict stone and well worth the visit.Did a drive by Cowdor Castle before stopping to see Culloden Battlefield. The interpretive center is very well done which is a good thing because the field is, well, a field. After the battle all clan lands were forfeited to the crown. The defeat was a slaughter and the field is a graveyard. Anyone interested in the history of Scotland should experience the interactive informative displays at the center.After this experience we were ready to find a place for the night, and that was to be in Drumnadrochit (don’t ask me how to pronounce it). This town is about mid way up Loch Ness. After a rest we drove up to Fort Augustus for a wander around and to have dinner. In the middle of town there is a memorial to Queen Victoria to mark her Jubilee, interesting to find this on the eve of Queen Elizabeth’s Jubilee celebration. Great little town with a lot of character as well as the Caledonian Locks which takes boats from the canal to Loch Ness (more locks and lochs!). Next morning we left Drulmnadrochit to look for Nessy from the walls of Urquhart Castle. Now we’ve been to a lot of castles and done a lot of tours (of one kind or another) but Urquhart had a new twist. There is a short very informative and well done film which gives you all the history you need in ten minutes or less. Then, when the movie is over, the screen lifts and the blinds open and there, before your eyes, is the castle. Wonderful way to take you from past to present while leaving the feeling of being there intact. “Genius” as they say. This part of Scotland has more trees and even forestry. We headed up Glen Urquhart to Glen Affric and then Glen Connich before going back through Inverness to Avoch and our stop for the night. The forest at Glen Affric is not old growth but it has been replanted in trees that are indigenous to the area. The Scots are very proud of this area. By the end of the day we realized yet again how lucky we are to live in Canada.This was Dorthy’s last night with us and we found the perfect B&B, but it wasn’t easy. This is the weekend that the Queen is celebrating her Jubilee. Jubilant subjects have taken to the countryside by droves and have filled up most of the accommodation for the second long weekend in a row. After the fellow at tourist information told us that the only thing he could find would be 249GBP we decided to take our chances and drive a little further out of town. Luck was with us but not until after we drove up to the middle of nowhere (again) and met a most delightful couple who found us a place at their friend Jennifer’s B&B because they were full. Before checking in we drove around a little then walked along the beach joining others trying to catch site of the local pod of dolfins. Jennifer, it turns out, has a home on the hill overlooking the water as well as rolling fields of green. Dorth and Shane and I sat on the patio in the sun sipping wine, chatting about how fast the month has gone while looking at the beautiful view. Not only did we have a great place to stay and good weather, we found a wonderful restaurant for dinner. Walking home after dinner Shane and I did a little hunting around the local church and found the well kept grave of Sir Alexander MacKenzie, a well known explorer in Canada. The next morning the three of us headed out to drive around the peninsula on our way to the Inverness Train Station. Found three oil rigs in the Cromarty Firth (not Loch), not sure if they are in use or being built there. Strange to see them in this beautiful part of Scotland.The three of us did a little walk about Inverness before leaving Dorth to make her way back to Edinburgh and eventually back to Canada. Seems strange to not have her cheery personality with us. After leaving Inverness the two of us headed north west to Ullapool, on Loch Broom. Nice little fishing village in a beautiful setting. Drove along the waterfront to the Corrieshalloch Gorge where we did a little hike down to take a look at the waterfall. The drive along Loch Broom and Little Loch Broom (not Firth) took us past rocky hills covered in heather and few homes. Lots and lots of people out walking along rocky paths with steep mountains in the background. This desperate land is really very pretty in a rough , how in the heck can they live here, kind of way. Hopefully we get out for a good walk on the moors tomorrow.
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