So here we are in Brugge... well actually I'm writing this in Brussels but we've spent the last two nights in Brugges and absolutely loved it.
I thought we'd wouldn't find a place I liked better than Haarlem however Brugge has probably won me over.
My sister arrived (a little late) from Canada in spite of that nasty volcano spewing more ash in the air. So many flights had been cancelled and delayed we were wondering if it would be a replay of a few weeks ago.
We hopped in the car and headed off to Belgium. Now I really appreciate Shane's driving in Italy. Here I am the driver and have to deal with nasty people trying to cut me off or ride my back. Not as bad as in Italy but here it's happening to me so it is much more nasty to be sure. Dodging the dodgy drivers we headed off on the freeway towards Brugge. 
I made reservations at a Bed and Breakfast that began it's life as a brewery many years ago. Situated in the historic center of town this funky place looks quite ordinary from the outside yet the inside magical. One of the owners is an architect and between his outlandish modern touches, her homey quilts and a lovey quiet garden courtyard it really is a charming place to stay. It's been a running joke with my sister and I for a while that we are beginning our trip together in a brewery and ending it in a convent. Our last two nights in Amsterdam are in a place called the Convent Hotel. Truth is we've already spent time in a convent as part of our wandering around Brugge included a visit to a lovely Convent House called Begijnhuisje (Beguine's House) - home to an order of nuns. Such a tranquil site. At the entrance to the compound you cross a bridge and look down at nesting swans and climbing wisteria in bloom. Yep... pretty nice place to be.
All of Brugge is really a town of surprises. The architecture is so different from what I am used to seeing in my travels. There is Romanesque, Baroque, Renaissance, Rococo,and a touch of Art Nouveau. All this with canals, bridges, twisty streets and good food. We spent a full day just wandering around following a walking tour in a brochure and, in spite of our good intentions, getting lost.
Besides the architecture there is beautiful Belgian lace and delicious Belgian chocolate. Of course there are all the kitchy tourist goodies to go along with all of that but we try to ignore that. It was nice to see all the lace. Reminded me of my mother's tatting and the lace that I have that was made by my grandmother and great grandmother.  
There is so much to say about Brugge. It is a Unesco World Heritage site and has an history that is kind of hard to believe. According to the guide book the area was invaded by the North Sea in the 5th Century which made a lot of waterfront property where before there was none. It took two centuries for the water to recede leaving behind fertile clay soil and lots of waterways. In 800AD a count they called the "Iron Arm" decided to build a military stronghold against the Vikings.  That was how Brugges began and from there it flourished. It actually became the main commercial and financial center of the Middle Ages thanks to Italian bankers... don't ask, that's just what they tell me. Then the French tried to dominate the town which made the locals pretty unhappy so the decided to fight back in 1302. The working class people (or guilds) decided to fight back and they won. On one of the Guild Houses you can see golden spurs of the French troops hanging on the walls.
In the 15th century Brugge reached it's pinnacle becoming the place to go for exotic merchandise.
So there you have it.
Now Brussels is a completely different place. I had my first mini meltdown driving in at rush hour. The ring road here has a center tunnel, a middle road and a outside road (last two divided by a boulevard). People cutting in front of me and pedestrians taking chances where they shouldn't.
Once we found the hotel we'd booked and had the car safely parked Brussels became a good place to visit!
Ate a great local meal (beef stewed in beer with a kind of mushy mashed potatoe/spinach dish). Now I know that sounds awful but it was really delicious.
Wandered downtown on foot and did a self directed walking tour of the main sights.... plus a bit of "Shopping Chocolate"... best part of that was the taste testing.
I liked Brussels but it is a big city and, anyone that knows me knows that a smaller town is more what I enjoy. We did get lost in the countryside on the way to Brussels ... took a detour which actually had another detour which took us through cow country on cobblestones. That part of the day I just loved. Little villages and rolling countryside. Heaven!
Next stop Luxembourg.