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Sometimes I need go get a catchy title to keep you all interested in our travels. By way of explanation I should tell you that, in some intstances, I have relied on our GPS (with her British programmed voice) to give us fairly accurate pronunciation of the Gaelic. In the last few days we have travelled through areas of Ireland that have little or no English spelling on any of their signs, especially when we were semi lost on the back roads. Gaeltachts are the Gaelic speaking areas of Ireland, the Donegal Gaeltacht stretches along the coast from Fanad Head to Slieve League with the largest number of 'Irish Speakers' in the country.
From my last entry, in Killybegs, Donegal, we've travelled on narrow, twisty ocean view roads through little villages with little or no English. Dorth is pretty good with please and thank you, but it is next to (if not completely) impossible to read a sign. So, when the GPS says 'Sue Per Vah Loo', you would naturally think it is another village. Nope, that is her way of pronouncing Super Valu Grocery store. So much for taking language lessons from a machine.
After leaving Killybegs, and successfully crossing a bridge that left 3 inches on either side of my side mirrors (twice!!) we drove west to our first stop, Slieve League. Here the cliffs are the highest in Europe. I had to drive along a sheep infested narrow twisty road to get to the look out but it was worth it. As the guide book says....'the drive ..is bumpy but worth enduring...the road becomes a series of alarming switchbacks...before reaching the good view' No Kidding!!
I'll be glad when Shane's back feels better and we can share driving again, though it is kind of fun!
Driving north from Slieve League we drove along the coastal route to Ardara then on to An FAl Carrach where, unfortunately, the quilt shop has either closed down or moved...my poor sister is still searching for a fat quarter. I have to tell you that the name on our map does not match the name in our travel books and certainly only comes close to the Gaelic on the signs. Not easy to find a non existant quilt shop under those conditions. Made for an interesting day!
Then to the mouth of Lough Swilly and an amazing experience at Grainan Ailich. From this fascinating circle fort atop a hill you could see to five counties of Ireland, North Ireland and the Republic. Yes the sun was shining and we actually could see.
Continuing to take the road less traveled we headed up to Buncrana for the night, completely avoiding Derry. Stayed in another B&B with a stunning view of the ocean before heading out the next day to take another twisty narrow road to Malin Head, the most northerly point in Ireland. Then twisted our way down to Glencastle where we took a ferry across to Northern Ireland.
Arriving in Northern Ireland was like leaving Ireland behind. I guess because we took a ferry, or maybe it was the different currency or perhaps it was the fact that we were greeted by a very ominous looking prison next to the dock. Never seen so much razor wire nor so many security cameras. This was to be a theme. At each police station we've seen in Northern Ireland there are cameras, lights and razor wire in excess. Well, if that's the only sign of the troubles we see then we'll be happy.
In Northern Ireland we managed to book a three night stay in yet another self catering unit in Bushmills. Very nice to have a three bedroom place within walking distance of Bushmills or the waterfront. With dishwasher, washing machine/drier for clothes and more stunning views it was the perfect place for some kick back. Gave Shane time to rest his back and me, well, my sister and I could walk to Bushmills for the tour and not have to worry about driving back.
So, let me tell you about the tour. Thanks to some very friendly Americans and a couple of 'codes' theuy got off the internet, we managed to get a couple of free (small) bottles of whiskey and I did an extra tasting of five samples (over and above the one you get with the tour). Even earned myself a personalized Bushmills Whiskey tasting certificate, and had a wonderful time doing it. I now am spoiled knowing the taste of a good whiskey as opposed to a nasty one!
The Coastal Causeway road has stunning views, especially with the sunshine we are now experiencing. You can even see across to Scotland if you look hard. This area with steep white cliffs and interesting geological formations would be a place I would come back to just to spend time hiking.
The Giant's Causeway, with it's bizarre regularity of irregular basalt columns, is something to behold. Millions of years in forming, these columns have inspired legend and encouraged people to learn more about how our earth was formed. I only wish we had gone early in the day before the tour buses got there. Somehow masses of people swarming over the honeycomb took away from my pleasure.
Dunluce Castle, dating back to the 14th Century, is another must see in the area with it's picturesque setting on yet another craggy cliff. Then there is the Rope Bridge, Carrick-A-Rede. With the beautiful sunny skies (have you noticed that it is getting sunnier and warmer the farther north we go?) and the fact that we got there just as it opened, it was the highlight of the area for me. Stunning setting in an area where fishermen used to pull their boats up and carry their catch across a much less sturdy rope bridge in years gone by. The rocks here are ablaze with spring flowers. No matter how hard you try you could never plant anything so beautiful and have it succeed.
There are so many inlets to explore, walks to do and cliffs to take pictures of. This is a magical place in the Springtime when the sun is out and the tourists are few.
Tomorrow we head down the coast to Larne where we take a ferry to Scotland. Ireland will be behind us but, I hope to return one day.
Oh....about the swat team in my blog title.... yesterday the television police (all dressed in black) came to our door to see if we were watching TV. Did you know you have an illegal signal? He asked..... No, I said..... Well... here is a warning ...you go tell the owner that he must register his signal. It is illegal to watch TV or record anything on a computer, television, ipod etc... without paying the fee. He could be fined a lot of money or sent to jail.
Now it seems to me that there is no special intake for the cable.... you just have to register that you watch it and pay a fee. Seems it would be easier to find out who doesn't watch than who does. Anyway, he believed me when I said I was only renting.
So, off to Scotland with a smile on our faces. Hope it's sunny there.
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