The continent of Antarctica is billed as the Coldest, Windiest, Driest, Highest Continent on Earth. Yep... it´s all true with the possibleexception of ´Driest´!
we´ve just completed an 8 day cruise (which really means 2 days in Ushuaia & 6 days cruising) to the Antarctic. On the journey we experienced everything from calm winds to near gales, blue sky to heavy overcast & fog, soft swells to rocking and rolling around the Horn and shirt sleeve weather to rain & snow.
As I write this we are waiting for our flight to Santiago, sitting in shirt sleeves with the sun shining on us and looking out at the Beagle Channel. Right now there are no waves to be seen. Yesterday it snowed with wind gusts over 85km/hr.
Antarctica has always been a dream for me. A magical land of ice and snow that funny little rotund birds manage to fondly call home. No amount of reading can fully prepare you for the impact of Antarctica. The experience goes beyond the visual. On board lectures, by learned profewionals, outline what you see and don´t see as well as why. From fisheries & geology to mammals, birds, boats & history. We didn´t miss one.
To walk on the continent of Antarctica you must take a zodiac from the ship through a maze of icebergs. It is like maneuvering through a canvas by Salvador Dali! Wierd angular shapes in the most amazing colour of blue. These contrast with the sea green so that even in the rain you can´t help but be enhralled.
Sea lions and fur seals rest on the bergs or on shore next to discarded whale bones (shades of history & a reminder of present day conflict). Thousands of penguins nest all over. They rest on the nastiest looking nests of rocks absolutely covered in stinky excrement. How those newly hatched balls of grey fur manage to stay clean I´ll never know. The behaviors we witnessed(posturing, vocalizing, stealing rocks etc.) were clearly outlined in a lecture. This really adds to the experience because you know what to look for and why... but it doesn´t help with the smells!
Now I have to tell you that the diagram outlining the look of different whale `blows´ looked pretty silly when I first saw it. Then, the more you get in to the experience, the more you really begin to use that kind of knowledge.
For me, having three humpbacked whales follow along beside us ... less than 10´off the port side... was my most amazing encounter of the trip. Huge, graceful and playing as if they wanted their picture taken! The whales feed here primarily on a small shrimp-like creature called krill. It lives only here and is highly nutritious.
I had no idea how fertile the ocean is here. What looks like frozen wasteland hides a bounty of krill and fish making it one big food court for whales, seales and penguins.
Like the galapagos we visited in November, these species are unique to the area. There is a cold barrier on the edge of the South Polar currant that acts like a wall that some species can not cross as they can not survive in warmer waters. Krill, the main diet and most nutritious food of the whales lives here in abundance.
The ship we were on, the Marco Polo, spent New Years Eve anchored in Port Lockroy. Though the day was raining and windy the evening was clear blue sky and midnight sun. We wandered the deck in evening dress after taking in a gala show in the Ambassador Lounge. (Where in the world are we???). The picture we took just after midnight showed the sun shining off the snowy peaks behind us.   Truly beautiful!
Now cruise ship life is a whole new experience for us. It seemed surreal to be in this place, sipping champagne with an orchestra playing in the background. There is a casino on the main deck, a nightclub, a regular bar, a piano bar, a lounge (all quite so I found out) two restaurnats, a gym complete with hot tubs and the list goes on. What´s more amazing is that this is a considered a small cruise ship! Just a tad different from our experience on the Navimag Ferry last month! (Note: Kim... I´ll tell you all about it when we return)
Though the big icebergs and some nasty winds kept us from experiencing the Lemaire channel and a zodiac landing at Helf Moon Bay, our Antarctic experience was wonderful.
The title of this entry...¨The Balance of Nature, Isn´t¨is a quote heard at the marine mammal lecture. Up to now I have only thought of global warming and Antarctica in relation to flooding. I had no idea of the important role Antarctica will play in the future of our planet.
Antarctica doubles in size during winter with the formation of huge ice shelves. Under these shelves live krill. Without krill many species (resident and transient) could not survive which would have a huge global impact.
There is concern that the South Polar current could be effected with warmer waters to the north. The current is like the spinning top that regulates all world currents. If it changes or even the polar barrier breaks down (the cold water wall that unique species can´t cross) life will change. We think we have bad weather now!
Just when my head was on information overload the discussion of oil exploration, mineral rights and governance issues came up. Though this is an area owned by all peoples (like a world park) and governed by a treaty, there are areas that countries have `claimed´. Everyone wants a piece of the pie. Apparently there is a ban on mineral exploration but this will be reviewed in 50 years. However, there are studies being done for scientific reasons. A big concern goes back to the unique species and organisms found here. A lot of money can be made in pharmaceuticals. If anything is found to be useful there is concern that information will not be shared (as the treaty demands). Illegal harvesting could well occur. It is a huge continent with, obviously, no police force. Already countries are harvesting whales saying they are doing studies on the contents of the contents of the stomachs of the whales. Huh!! If that´s the case then why don´t they just catch krill, fish and squid? Go figure!
There are also concerns over tourism spoiling the ecosystem. At this time very strict regulations are in place. From the mandatory scrubbing down of your boots (before & after landing) to the numbers of people allowed on land at one time. It is a good start. One of the lecturers suggested that tourism could well save the area. Informed people will spread the news.
The balance of nature isn´t ever balanced because of all the stresses placed on it.
The weight of the Antarctic ice pack is actually pushing down the land base below it. Squashing it down towards the core of our earth. Talk about heavy stresses. If there is more snow than normal you can imagine the possible scenario.
Over fishing greed and need all strain the fragile ecosystem.

The Antarctic is a vast, sensitive, wild and amazingly beautiful part of our world. We owe it to ourselves and our families to become better informed. Greed and need could be the downfall of our world.
Pretty heavy stuff for the holidays. What can I say... I´m an old hippie at heart.