After a very bumpy ride over a 10km dirt track our 4WD arrives at Twin Falls. Only accessible during the dry season, two streams of water trickle down hundreds of feet into the plunge pool. It's possible to see the debris line on the surrounding trees showing that water level of the swamp easily reaches 3m higher than its current level. Recent saltwater crocodile incursions into the area mean it is no longer to swim at Twin Falls. Evidence enough is provided by the two inch deep holes in the floatation balls which the rangers coat in fish oil to monitor crocodile activity.

Even more bumpy track and jagged river beds lead us to Jim Jim Falls, not named after two blokes with the same name, but after Andjimjim which is a fruit. Getting to falls themselves is quite hard work clambering over 1km worth of metre high jagged boulders. My boots manage to save my ankles a few times as I slip on the sandy rocks. Certainly in need of a good swim after all the walking and the plunge pool of Jim Jim is just the ticket. Beneath the falls it's actually just cold, wet and windy, but the scenery is truly wonderful.

The journey back is broken up by a stop in Gagaju (the proper name for Kakadu, as there was some mix up when standardising the local Aboriginal language to English), where a hotel shaped like a crocodile is located.

The smoke in the air makes for yet another magnificent sunset. The authorities are burning parts of the land to prevent any uncontrollable fire from spreading from the bush into the city of Darwin itself.