First sight of some crocodiles (apart from those in the wire mesh at the Pink Panther Pub and Wildlife Centre) comes on the Mary River Cruise. The billabong is full of freshwater, and the more dangerous saltwater crocodiles - creatively known as "freshies" and "salties" by the locals - and it isn't long before we see a few basking at the water's edge. Campers are advised not to get into any routines: the crocodiles have remarkable abilities to remember patterns of behaviour. There's also lots of bird life on view and a fish with a death wish tries to jump into the boat. Everyone on the boat with crocodiles on the brain get quite a fright.

On the road again and we stop off at a 3m high termite mound. It is by no means the biggest (they grow to as much as 7m in Kakadu) but it is conveniently located at the roadside. I'm amazed by how hard it is, it's like brick. Termites produce it with the 3 Ss (saliva, soil and s***). The termites themselves are tiny and are all living inside the mound. All I can see from the outside are green ants diving in for some termite breakfast.

It's here that I sample a bit of bush tucker. Aborigines traditionally dunk a green ants' nest in water to provide a refreshing drink. Short of killing all the ants a way to sample the taste is to lick an ant's bottom. I'll have to make sure I don't get into a habit of this, but it actually tastes really good, a bit like a lemon flavour Smint.

At Ubirr Rock the flat rock faces sit beneath shady overhangs - providing a perfect place for a classroom in times gone by. On the rock faces the remnants of these ancient lessons are still visible - there's a cookery wall, a discipline wall and a dreamtime story wall. The paintings are all very practical, the dot art most commonly associated with Aboriginies nowadays is a very recent idea (it only started in the 1960s). The rock art at Ubirr has acted as a time capsule of the animals in the region when they were painted. For example, the Tasmanian tiger was once native to all of Australia, and is depicted here. At the top of Ubirr Rock is a majestic view over the flood plain: dotted with billabongs now, the whole area is flooded during the wet season.

Around the campfire a few hours and a few beers later everyone is singing and dancing with broomsticks, led by a group (or should I say troupe) of five totally batty Irish primary school teachers who are travelling with us...they even came armed with a songbook!