After a very bumpy ride over a 10km dirt track our 4WD arrives at Twin Falls. Only accessible during the dry season, two streams of water trickle down hundreds of feet into the plunge pool. It's possible to see the debris line on the surrounding trees showing that water level of the swamp easily reaches 3m higher than its current level. Recent saltwater crocodile incursions into the area mean it is no longer to swim at Twin Falls. Evidence enough is provided by t...

First sight of some crocodiles (apart from those in the wire mesh at the Pink Panther Pub and Wildlife Centre) comes on the Mary River Cruise. The billabong is full of freshwater, and the more dangerous saltwater crocodiles - creatively known as "freshies" and "salties" by the locals - and it isn't long before we see a few basking at the water's edge. Campers are advised not to get into any routines: the crocodiles have remarkable abilities to...

Up for a bit of canoeing this morning in Katherine Gorge. A tree full of flying foxes is making a hell of a racket making it difficult to hear the safety talk: something about crocodiles and getting mowed down by cruise boats. Its very peaceful on the river, no particular current to fight against and lots of secluded beaches to park at (except for those which are designated as crocodile breeding sites) below the steep gorge walls. My rowing technique is not the b...

We head off the Stuart Highway briefly to have a look at the middle of nowhere. The bus and trailer kick up plooms of dust along the desert track leading to a point in the cattle ranch with nothing to see but dust for miles around. Some quite intensive travelling is required today, 800km in total, but the random outback towns are actually quite funny. They all have populations of about 20 (basically the owners of the pub and petrol station and their families) wh...

"Less of a tour, more of a really long drive" is the description given by Jordan, our otherwise very enthusiastic guide for the 3-day, near-2000km drive up to Darwin. An aged monument and faded line mark the Tropic of Capricorn, our first stop just outside Alice Springs, though it will take more than a day to reach anything resembling the tropics. Here it's just red, red, red. Termite hills dot the land like a giant cemetery - they are lined up east ...