We were up early but then discovered the gas was not on so there was no showers, water for washing up or burners to make coffee on. Not a soul was about so we ate breakfast with tea – not a popular thing with Joan. Eventually we saw Jose in the garden and he sorted out the gas.

As it was Xmas day we exchanged gifts. We had opened our main presents from our families the Friday before we left. We never buy each other much at Christmas – just a token gift and because we are usually away, it is a small present that will not take up too much space in the cases.

We thought most places would be shut today so we decided to just go for a drive into the mountains. The road here, the 115, crosses the mountains into Argentina. Along the way we came across a statue of the Sacred Heart which had many plaques of thanks on it. A new shelter for the site had been recently erected and there was a book about its creation at the feet of the statue. Joan lit a candle for her mother.

Further up we went passed the reservoir and many canals carrying bright blue water. There was evidence of rock falls on to the carriageways and there were metal nets above the road to catch falling stones.

Initially the day was cloudy with a bit of damp in the air but the clouds lifted and it got hot. (Note to selves: remember to book a vehicle with air-conditioning.)

Further up the road we passed a customs point at La Mina. Not soon after we saw a few cars parked by the road and saw a sign for Termas de Medano. Down in the valley there was a couple of open air pools so we decided to stop.

The termas cost $2,000 (£1.60). The chap at the ticket office pointed out the bathrooms, the pools and pointed to a track on the side of the mountain and said there were "vapores" there.

We were intrigued.

We set off up the hill, but then spotted our truck parked on the hill opposite with its lights on! (You have to drive with your lights on in Chile.) Poor Kevin had to walk back to the truck where he found the battery had flattened. Two chaps having a picnic with their family close by helped him bump start the vehicle down a slope. Kevin parked it so he could bump start it again if necessary.

We then carried on up the track to find three galvinised tin shacks on the path. There were built over fumaroles (volcanic vents) so hot fumes were belching out of them. The huts enclosed the fumes and made a type of sauna. There were rudimentary wooden benches in there and odd drips of hot water sometimes fell on us. It was an unexpected but delightful discovery, and a unique way to spend Christmas day. It made us remember other Xmas days away such as the one we spent exploring the deserted nitrate town of Humberstone in the Atacama desert, the day we had a puncture miles away from anywhere on the Carretera Austral and walking around a volcano in Tenerife. (Much better than last year when we stayed at home and Joan had a bad cold and couldn't face eating until New Year’s Eve!)

Having left the fumaroles we decided not to go in the pools as they weren’t that hot, but it didn’t deter the many families who had turned up with picnics and cool boxes full of drinks.

The truck started first time and we headed back to the lake. On the way we were stopped at the customs point and a young officer shook Kevin’s hands and asked where we had come from. We told him the spa and he cheerfully waved us through.

Back on the road there were many groups of people enjoying the holiday and bathing in the lake and water channels.

Having returned to the house, Viviana, who owns the three houses there with her husband, explained that her family were imminently returning to their home in Rancagua. She suggested that we should move into the house that they had been staying in. This was very kind.

The new house is very modern, light and airy. It had views over the lake, balconies and big sliding doors. It was idyllic. Kevin moved our things across whilst Joan prepared Christmas dinner: pumpkin and chick pea wellington, with mushroom gravy, cauliflower cheese and chips!! This we ate on the balcony overlooking the lake. Feliz Navidad!