Today we had a tour of Punta Arenas on foot. Despite togging up for the trip there was a bitter wind which seemed to penetrate every layer of clothing. Apart from that it was mainly sunny with a few clouds. The place we are staying is south of the centre, maybe a fifteen minute walk from the centre.
Our first stop was the obligatory statue of General Bernardo O'Higgins. Virtually every town in Chile has one and he is typically depicted on horseback. Sadly there was no horse. But underneath there was a representation of his deathbed. There was also a commemorative plaque from Yugoslavian immigrants in his honour and a map of Chilean Antartica that is the same territory also claimed by Argentina and Britain.
The ambiance here is a lot wealthier than other places we have visited. The sea ports in the north like Antofagasta, Iquique and Arica are dusty, faded towns with peeling paint and rotting facades. This place feels grand, like a Paris or Madrid. The streets are wide to herd sheep down them and even the houses on the outskirts are well maintained, in contrast to Ushuaia.
The cathedral sits on the main square, Plaza Munoz Gamero. We went in but there was a baptism taking place so we quietly left.
In the middle of the Square was a statue of Ferdinand Magellan, the navigator who discovered the straits upon which Punta Arenas sits. Local tradition has it that if you touch the toe of the Ona native, you will return here. Kevin obliged.
Next door was the Chilean equivalent of County Hall. Soldiers were putting up a stage outside, as if some official event was going to be held there.
On another corner was Sara Braun's house, a rich widow. It was very elegant with its own Winter Garden.
Further on, there was a street market selling kiddies' toys, wrapping paper, scarves and knitwear.
We next visited the Sanctuario Maria Auxiliadora which is famed for its ghoulish statues with wigs made out of real hair. Sadly this is much exaggerated but we did see a rather splendid crib. The figures were the same as those we have at home, but larger and more people. Kevin however couldn't remember there being an elephant in the nativity story!
As we left Joan spotted a coffin in a back room surrounded by mourners.
Next came another statue of Bulnes, general and President, on a horse.
Then it was a trip to the cemetery which is one of the top tourist attractions with some very grand tombs, especially that of Josef Menendez. The names and inscriptions told a story: French, German, Croatian, Italian, Scottish. The cemetery was so big it had signposts and the paths were lined with well trimmed Cypress trees.
We walked back, via the supermarket, our hands purple with the cold.
Back at the cabana, despite a dearth of cooking equipment we made up a Shepherdless pie, with mushroom gravy and broccoli washed down with a Cab Sav.