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Kevin and Joannie on tour
The campsite seemed to have gotten even busier overnight.
Since we last visited it seems to be more prepared for the up-and-coming
holiday season. Brand new litter bins
had been put out, the sanitary block had new hand driers and there were tanks
of potable water.
The highly efficient family had already packed away and were
off in their Landrover and we hadn’t even had breakfast. We filled up with petrol at the Copec station
and the four smiling petrol pump attendants tried out their English on us and
admired our “beautiful” motorhome. We
wished them all a Happy New Year.
We headed inland to visit the Mina San Jose – a small gold
and copper mine that was the scene of a miraculous rescue six years ago. Thirty three miners, Chilean and one
Bolivian, were trapped 700 metres underground after a rock fall blocked their
exit. A rescue mission was launched
without knowing if they were even alive.
It was 18 days before a probe reached the gallery where they were and
they sent up a message saying all 33 of them were miraculously alive.
As the rock fall had caused an instability which could not
be safely cleared, plans were made to make three bore holes. Specialist drilling rigs had to be brought in
and given the distances involved in Chile and the huge equipment required, it
was estimated it would take 2/3 months to make a bore large enough to get them
out. The Chilean government threw all
its capacity at securing the rescue of the men which in the end took 70 days. Like most people, Kevin and I were gripped by
the rescue efforts and sat up late at night as the Fenix 2 capsule finally
reached the bottom and all 33 men got out.
San Jose mine is now closed for mining but you can go and
visit. It lies about 30 kilometeres from
Bahia Inglesa. The road was metalled but
bumpy. A signpost showed a winding
gravel path heading up into the hills.
For once, our motorhome made it.
There was a barrier where you are asked for a voluntary contribution and
then a short steep drive up to a viewing point.
A gentleman explained the different sights you could
see. There was the location of
Campamento Esperanza where the families came and lived whilst the rescue took
place. There was the now capped entrance
to the drift mine and the sights of the various shafts, including the Plan B
shaft where the rescue eventually took place. A school had been built there for
the children who were waiting, there was also a hospital and a helicopter
landing platform so the then President Pinera could fly in and oversee the
rescue. It was a hot, dusty, barren
place with no water or electricity. For
a Chilean mine it was surprisingly small too.
We asked after the wellbeing of the miners but were told many were now
fighting with mental health issues after the trauma. Also we were told that many of the promises
that had been made at the time about better working practices and health and
safety issues had not been kept.
Beside the viewing area was Fenix 3, one of the capsules
which was designed to get the men out.
For the rescue mission, Fenix 2 was used and is now on display in
Copiapo. This was the exact same design
and very small. The claustrophobia must
have been great. Seemingly the miners
were restricted to 2500 calories a day so they could fit in it.
There were also lots of photos and videos explaining the
recue and by the entrance 33 flags flew, 32 Chilean and one Bolivian to
commemorate “los 33.”
We were both pleased to have visited this place as it was
hard to imagine what this place was like from the TV coverage.
Then we headed east down a windy road to the Ruta 5. It was New Year’s Eve and we had booked the
same hotel at La Serena that we stayed in when our motorhome broke down. A few creature comforts are welcome now and
then. Plus the Chileans make a great deal of New Year. It seems our hotel was right in the midst of
the celebrations. Just by the beach and in front of the lighthouse, there was a
huge stage with lasers set up, blasting out South American pop tunes. As sun was setting families were putting out
tables and chairs, firing up barbeques, opening bottles of wine and generally
having a good time. Street vendors were
selling illuminated toys, kebabs and silly hats.
The restaurant where we ate before was shut and the others
were all booked so we went back to the hotel.
Initially we asked in the restaurant if they could knock us something
up. They said no. So we went to reception and asked if it would
be all right to order in a takeaway. The
receptionist said yes but then the general manager came over and asked what we
wanted. Having explained she went to see
the chef and said they could do a salad.
We accepted. A place was found
for us in the restaurant and eventually a plate of mixed veg came our way. No bread, no potatoes but grateful nonetheless.
After dinner we went out to join the party. People had these huge party poppers about a
metre long that covered you in ticker tape and gold flakes. It was just like a Take That concert. Lots of
paper lanterns were floating in the night sky creating their own
constellations. Unlike the UK there was no countdown to midnight, just
fireworks crackling and exploding. For us it was a short walk back to our hotel
where we toasted 2017 with a wee dram of single malt. Cheers!
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