As we didn't have to return our hire car till mid-morning, we got up somewhat bleary eyed about an hour before dawn and drove the 15 km or so to Tongariki where the 15 restored Moai are. There were a few other cars already parked and about 30 people there to see the sunrise behind the Moai. It was quite spectacular as the sun streamed between the statues. Everyone was silent. Fairly soon after, the whole site was deserted and it was lovely to be alone there a few minutes. There was even a short sharp downpour which freshened things up. On the way back our progress was hampered by horses standing in the road drinking out of puddles. We saw a protest sign asserting independence from Chile but most of the population here are no longer indigenous as the arrival of Westerners brought slavery and disease. Once back at the Cabana we were greeted with the news that the 48 hour strike had become indefinite and that the unions and the employers weren't even around the table together. The Chilean military was planning to fly in supplies to the island which were running low. During the morning a knock came on our door and we were told some replicas of the raft Kontiki were sailing by and we could see them out in the impossibly blue ocean. Joan was excited as it was the story of Thor Heyerdahl and the Kontiki which had influenced her decision to come here. Essentially a day which should have been about packing became another sightseeing day. We walked in to town to the caleta or quay. Joan had heard that one might see turtles there sometimes so we were amazed to find one straight away. Kevin saw one first and wasn't sure exactly what he had seen. We then saw another. Its shell alone was about 1 meter long and its head was the size of a football. It lolled in the water between the fishing boats with long flippers, occasionally coming up for air. We tried to get some photos. There were also some cute, balloon shaped fish darting about. Having watched the big turtle for a while we decided to go for a drink. The first bar was full so we chose a restaurant called Pea (turtle) which stood out to sea with good views of the Kontiki rafts and the quay. Vegetarian food here is limited and this place seemed no better offering a vegetarian sandwich accompanied by a "mini porcion de papas fritas", i.e. small portion of chips. When it came, it was huge. The sandwich itself was humongous with an unusual combination of cooked vegetables, creamed mushrooms and greens with a very generous portion of chips. We ate this watching fishing boats come and go and bathers splashing in the waves. We then realised that a - insert collective noun - of turtles had turned up and were frolicking in the waves too. Occasionally their heads would pop up or a flipper. We must have watched for an hour or so before they left. Amazing!! Totally full we walked back to the cabana where details about the strike weren't looking good. We decided to have a rest and then take a picnic down to the Tahai moai to see the sunset again. Because of the clouds it was not as spectacular but magical nonetheless. Near the moai some marquees had been erected and we saw lots of female guests in pretty flowered headdresses and necklaces for what we assumed was a wedding. An unexpected, impromptu and special day.