Taupo is actually quite pretty when it doesn't rain. This was my first realisation on my second arrival here. A lake and mountains, that kind of thing (last time the rain and fog made it seem like Stars in thier eyes entrance tunnel).

The sun was on my side this time through and thus there was no escape from the famous Tongariro Crossing, home of Mount Doom and many very strong legged hikers. That name says its all, really- during this hike I was filled with the doom of my impending demise as I staggering up th Devils Staircase, wheezing and fearing my heart may fall out of my ears during the 1600 ft climb of hell. Nothing to do with my lack of fitness, of course, you understand, the evil powers of that doom ridden mountain must not be underestimated.

It was indeed a quest of otherworldy proportions, with bleak sheer drops of scree with red tints and sulphur billowing through the rocks, to surreal bright aqua green emerald lakes and flat barren craters. The weather during the 18km hike went from drizzle, gale force winds at the top of the mountain (my pink fluffy gloves donmated by a kindly hostel owner allowed my digits to also enjoy the trip with feeling) to sublime sunshine and beautiful downhill path at the end, and finsihed with a flourish of little waterfalls and woodland serenity.

Even survived a Lord of the Rings commentry (enightening if not goobeldy gok) from the peeps I was on the quest with, whilst I shared some homeopathic pearls on the wonders of sulphur- I'm sure they felt the same about that! Felt very proud and quite broken, as the Germans say, at the end and very grateful for the invention of modern transport. Once in a lifetime kind of thing ( my legs couldn't manage it again) and I can see why they say one of the best day walks in New Zealand. Spectacular.