Both Orccha and Kahurajo are 200km from Agra South. Both are renound for their temples. Orccha is less touristy and has a fantastic palace and rugged temples and scenery near a river. Its very un-touristy there and we were the only ones seeing the temples much to our surprise. An untouched jewel really. Kahurajo is more touristy because it has the famous kama sutra temples. the carvings are explicit, erotic and pretty amazing. the grounds are well kept, and the temples maintained. there were 3 groups of temples, one you pay to get into the other ones we got to by bicycle. they are strewn in the fields amid water buffalo and wart hogs. the bikes were great, the old fashioned style with high handle bars and no gears. but thats cool cos its flat. I did 2 morning sessions of yoga with an instructor who teaches hatha and i was so sore for 2 days i could barely move! all good now though. after khaurajo we caught a bus to the Holy City Varanasi. The bus hurtled through the Panna tiger reserve and the bus didnt have a front windsheild, so when we passed signs reading 'no stopping, you are in a tiger reseve, the lack of windscreen did unsettle me. we ate coconut and slept over 3 seats each for the 15 hr trip. the ticket guy tucked me in slash tried to grope me which was pretty annoying. after i yelled at him and everyone turned around to stare he left me alone. paul was sleeping. arrived at varanasi 5am and made our way to the hotel where we are now...