We made it to Chennai and realised the rickshaws aren't bargainable and they totally over charge you. I was a little frustrated after the bus ride from Hyderabad and nearly yelled at the guy who told me it was 20kms into the city when it was only 10km. We found a reasonable place to stay and slept for most of the first day there. We went out to a couple of nice eatieries, but Chennai is so large and spread out, its hard and takes time to get anywhere. We made friends with the local chai (tea stall) owner and went there often for tea. Because there is no 'backpacker' area (as as been for the past 2 weeks or so), there's none of this pancakes or porridge for brekky. Instead we found a brilliant roti and omlette local eatery which we thouroughly enjoyed. Roti for breakfast is just super. Roti has changed from plain bread type stuff to the kind of stuff you find in roti chennai in wellington (those of you who know it will know how GOOD it is). And really it is roti Chennai, its different from anywhere else in INdia so far. So much nicer too. mmmmm! After 2 nights we went to pick Pauls dad up from the aiport which was an experience going 30kms in a rickhsaw. We stayed at a really nice plush place for 2 nights, a real treat. He thought we'd both be skinny and emaciated, but was happy to see we were well fed. Pauls gotten a bit skinny, but me, I think I had put on a bit of weight over the xmas period. Eating like a King is hard on the body. On Pauls dads first day we went to see a few sights, and temples which were just stunning. Carvings of gods and dietes painted in multicoloured brilliance. People giving pooja to the gods and lazing around in serene calmness. The ghats nearby drew crowds as people fed the tiger fish which swarmed to the surface by the thousands. Women in bright saris lining the streets stringing flowers into necklaces, bringing bright bursts of colour to the dusty streets. We went to the large beach in the afternon and walked through the beach markets and took in the atmoshpere. Again its pretty dirty, but the people and atmosphere made up for it. Paul even had a go at shooting some colourful balloons with an air rifle (weird). They also sell fresh fish on the beach and fry it up for you right there and then. its pretty special. After a long walk we made it back inland, had lunch and chai and fresh juice (theres so much fresh fruit and juice here its brilliant!), and made it back to the hotel pretty exhausted. The following morning we headed off for Mallabapurum (a small beach town 2 hrs south of Chennai), which is where we are now. Its LOVELY. More about that later.

Julia.