Day 45 to 46 -14th to 15th December -into Kenya

Point of departure : Arusha

Point of arrival : Amboseli National Park, Kenya

Accommodation: Tortilis Tented Camp (www.tortilis.com)

Km travelled today: 196 km Cum: 8 696km (gravel 98kmcum 2 215km)

Countries so far: 6/16

Where to next? Nairobi

Total number of photos taken: 194 (cum 2 560)

(background information source Bradt Guide to Kenya)

A 07h30 departure… it felt so good to be back on the road again!

Getting out of Arusha was straight forward but the first 60km to the border were something else.The early part was affected by the early rains experienced in the prior 48 hours, with swimming pool size potholes, life threatening verges and "rivers" overflowing across the road.Add to this the driving habits of the locals, and it really becomes interesting!

After that it was a series of deviations where roads were being repaired but we negotiated that without problem, and inside two hours we were at the Namanga (Kenyan) border.Once again no problems… we completed formalities on both sides within 40 minutes, and after a 3 way discussion between Marina, John and Hilda on the gps, we got on the right road to Amboseli National Park and the Tortilis Tented Camp arriving in time for lunch.

Amboseli is renowned for its unrivalled views of Africa's highest mountain, snow-capped Kilimanjaro and the local elephant population - some of the largest in Africa. Amboseli means "place of dust" in Maasai - aptly named. The park at 350 sq km is the second most visited park in Kenya, after the Maasai Mara. Kenya, over the past three years, has also been experiencing drought and the Park has lost over 5 500 wildebeest (only +/- 200 at the moment in the park). Coupled with the devastation caused by the elephants (200 died this year alone - including Echo the famous matriarch star of the BBC wildlife programme who died in May at the age of 64)) and no grazing, the Park is looking like a dustbowl.The Maasai here have lost about 80% of their cattle.The current short rains have started to revitalise the area.Eric says that scientists have said that it will take approximately 20 years to get the Park back to its former glory.

Tortilis Camp, is named after the flat-topped, umbrella thorn tree, the Acacia Tortilis and is on the boundary of Amboseli National Park on land leased from the local Maasai.The camp has 18 safari "A" framed style tents, all with a view of Kili and the lounge/dining area perched on a hill, overlooking Kili and a watering hole.

We had a short game drive in the afternoon in the company of Chantelle Miller (a Nairobi resident), her mother Jeane and cousin Michel with our Maasai guide, Eric.Some good sightings in the plains and the swamp areas - although often at a distance.Back to the lodge for a G&T and dinner.

We have still not seen the mountain… the cloud cover was firmly in place with ran evidently falling on the lower slopes.Maybe tomorrow.

Day 46 - an early call for our morning game drive and the added bonus of a lovely African dawn and a partial view of the mountain… still quite a lot of cloud about.Could not help thinking of the intrepid climbers who had set out at midnight and were now getting to Stella Point and the summit of Kili - Uhuru Peak, with flashbacks to our summit of 2005 and John's second summit in 2007. Kilimanjaro is Swahili for "white-topped mountain" and the Maasai name "Ol Donyo Oibor" which means "white mountain".

A very pleasant game drive with great elephant sightings with backdrops of Kili, an unexpected encounter with an African python (probably about 2 metres in length and a very handsome fellow), and a pride of 6 lions on the move across the plains.As we were on Maasai land, we had the freedom of the plains and were able to drive off-road and follow whatever took our interest.

A pleasant surprise was breakfast in the bush… old safari style (unspoiled by any sign of civilisation). A table laid for 6, beneath an Acacia Tortilis, with the backdrop of Kili, with everything from fruit, muesli to bacon and eggs and crepes, all on the menu.The best part was the portable bush loo, strategically placed out of sight behind some foliage, but with a clear, uncluttered view of Kili - another loo with a view!They thought of everything!

We also discovered that Chantelle is a close neighbour of Rod and Debbie Evans, John's cousin who we will be seeing in Nairobi - small world.

Back to the lodge and possibly the biggest surprise of all… a gleaming, sparkling Beast.White again after all the mud of Tanzania and what a difference it makes.Thank you Tortilis staff - what service!

Another surprise on our afternoon game drive - sundowners and hot snacks on Sundowners' hill - more old safari style.Marina was hoping that Denys Finch Hatton would pop in.Then to top this - Kili displaying her snow capped tip through the thick blanket of clouds, albeit for a few minutes.

In discussion with Eric (our Maasai guide) we learnt about the Olgulului Primary School which caters to children in the Amboseli area and is partially supported by Tortilis Tented Camp and guest donations.We felt that this would be an appropriate place to make our second school's donation and disucussed this with John Upton & Clare Redfern (Tortilis camp managers) and Eric.As the school had already closed for the Christmas break we decided to make the donation to John and Eric at the camp and they would ensure that it reached its intended beneficiaries.The donation from from Danieli and Simonetta Olivi (thank you both) was handed over at the same time.See separate blog entry in respect of the school.