so this is it then, i'm currently in mumbai airport killing time. and as i've missed all those new year list things the papers do at this time of year, i thought i would do one of my own... the bests... lassie - temple lassie at murthera (will correct spelling later!), they flicked the flies off the curd, made it with local waters, added cardamon suger with bare hands and served it in a terracotta pot. This was the absolutely best tasty lassie i had, and it didn't make me at all ill. research suggests that the more you pay for a lassie, the worse it is. meal - kingfish steak with garlic butter in karalom, our first fish of south india due to the flooding, and well worth the wait best snack - apple pie at illy's coffee shop siagon coffee - vietnamese, 1 centimeter of thick black stuff with a strange taste of chocolate, and another centimeter of condensed milk. stir together and sip slowly moments - my first tiger, and leaving the 5 star hotel in delhi to get on an autorickshaw and drive through the rush hour madness to try to get the last train to agra. the moment i realised for the first time of the trip that i could, and that i did love india too the very best moment though was way back a week into the first trip, after a really hard days down hill trekking, with my toe in complete agony, i sat with my boots off, in the sun, looking at the hills of north vietnam, drinking green tea just picked from the garden, with 3 months of adventures ahead of me. At this moment i knew i was as completely content as it is possible to humanly be....