as i'm so far behind, i will just summarise the rest of my last trip. we did see 5 other tigers, all asleep and all from the back of elephants, we also spend 2 hours 15 yards from well hidden tigers, a male and female, who were hiding in the bushes and occasionally roaring at us. that was really good, it was a timely reminder that the sleeping cuties are really actually very dnagerous wild animals. their roar is very deep and echos all round the jungle, it was really very exciting even though we couldn't see them. My 4 days i was supposed to spend in back in delhi changed to time in agra instead. agra being much more bearable than dehli (sorry again puspha). The exodus method of indian train travel is to buy a nice ticket and still in a posh (ish) carriage. The local way is to buy cattle class, get an unoffical seat in the carriage above cattle class and pay a fine! this is a little dodgy cos it depends on the class above not being ful, but it worked nicely for my additional agra trip. I am now in ooty (tea land) with the new group, and lookign forward to south india. already is it nicer (less poor and prettier) than the north. we are heading east across the country to chennia, as the tropical strom heads west across the sea to chennai, but apparently it will all be fine!!