Today we woke early and headed out for a cup of coffee in the early morning sun, the kittens were going crazy and were very entertaining to watch. We checked our mail and read the news before I had a brief chat with my friend Alex in America while Steven asked the owner of the hotel if he knew of anywhere good for a local breakfast. He recommended a place on the Main Street and we set off in search of it, it didn't take long before we found the place... A small ramshackle hut opposite a Wat. Here the girl seemed friendly enough and we ordered two noodle soups with pork for about 65p each and after a little wait she soon returned with two large steaming bowls and some limes. The soup was beautiful and very fragrant with soft tender pieces of pork flaking off within the broth, the noodles were made of rice and nice and thick like udon noodles (my fave). Sprinkled on top was a delicious mixture of browned garlic, fresh coriander and chopped spring onion... It was delicious and very tasty. We added a hint of chilli oil for spice and squeezed the lime on for added depth and savoured every mouthful while chatting about the day a head. We had to pick up our passports from the Vietnam embassy before a full day of sightseeing.

After breakfast we slowly meandered to the Wat across the road where we thought we would take a look around. There were a couple of small sims inside with each one demanding ten to twenty thousand kip to enter which did vex me slightly... After all would we charge someone to visit our church? I am aware Lao is poor and the Wats require money to run but the Buddhist community are very generous towards their religion and donations are often given as well as alms to the monks (a ritual that takes place daily where the public line up to give monks money and food). I just sometimes feel that a donation box is more appropriate in a place of worship otherwise you run the risk of excluding those who can't afford to pay the fee. I know local people don't pay and its aimed more at foreign travellers but I can by no means afford to pay up to two pounds for every Wat I would like to visit... There are hundreds in Lao and surely it is better to encourage people to see your place of worship rather then use it as a tourist trap. I understand with the larger Wats that they are popular and can see why a fee is charged but this Wat was like a small church in a village and although requires looking after... Looked neglected so who knows where the money goes. I'm sure there's a reason but I find it sad as I love exploring these beautiful places and just simply can't afford the constant entry fees.

After a look around the outside we headed down to the Vietnam embassy where we collected our visas. Mine had the year missing from the exit date and had been rewritten in pen and signed... The guy said this was okay but I was less optimistic. I have heard too many horror stories where people are charged extortionate fees at the border because of a typo on their visa. We left but soon went back just to clarify... They refused to reprint the visa and the guy assured me it was fine to which I replied "are you sure... I have heard about these people" (border control) without thinking... The guy simply laughed and said its okay as its stamped.... Mmm only time would tell. The Lao to Vietnam border (and visa versa) are notorious for adding fees and ripping people off. Apparently they even charge you a 'stamp fee' which basically relates to them stamping your visa... You pay them a couple of dollars to literally stamp your visa... A border control clerks job... No? Beer money I'm sure.

Anyway we left not really reassured but not much we can do and maybe I was just being a bit suspicious of them, I'm sure it will be fine. We walked back to the hotel so Steven could change his top (too sweaty already) and then continued our walk towards the museum. On route we checked out several Wats and again faced numerous entry fees so simply marvelled at the outside of them while enjoying the tranquility these grounds offer before eventually arriving at the museum. Here we looked around a new beautiful Wat that has been built to house the Phra Bang Buddha which is as revered at the emerald Buddha in Thailand. Its a stunning building covered in gold leaf and jewelled tiles. Inside is a rich wooden floor and even more gold leaf... It really does sparkle in the sunshine. We looked around the grounds but as it was 11am we knew we had left it too close to closing... Again. We decided to head down to the river and enjoy a cup of Lao coffee while waiting for the 1.30pm reopening. We thought what better way to wait then by sitting and enjoying the view, however on arrival we saw that the coffee was practically the same price as the beer so we just ordered a a nice freezing cold beer.

The next two hours were spent sipping said cold beer and discussing our plans for Australia while enjoying the view. The restaurant ...well more a deck sat on top of the bank overlooking the Mekong river had amazing views and was lovely. From here you could see the water taxis ferrying people from one side to the other as well as the various other traffic. We sat and chilled and enjoyed the break from the sun but soon enough half past one approached and so we headed back in the direction of the museum. It wasn't far but we were already struggling in the heat on arrival, so paid the price and made a hasty retreat for the coolness inside.

The museum sits in the previous palace of the royal family and was a really understated place. We had to leave bags and cameras in lockers outside so afraid no pics but we were surprised at how modest the building was. We knew the royal family were very understated but never appreciated how much... Each room although full of dark wood and beautifully carved furniture, remained understated and simple. The King and Queens respective bedrooms had simple white walls, dark oak floor, with only a dark wood bed, wardrobe and drawer set. There was a large Chinese style urn in the corner and some simple portraits on the walls. Even the bed linen was a simple white.... It was quite refreshing. On walking through the palace you can see various artefacts from the monarchies time here, including a room full of the gifts received from the visiting royals of countries such as Myanmar, China, the USA and Australia... None from us though. There was also hundreds of Buddhas scattered around and various relics from Buddhism. While in the museum we bumped in to Alissa and Jay, the Aussie couple from the bowling alley. We had been messaging sporadically on FB but had yet to meet... We chatted briefly about the waterfall and such (27km away and they cycled in the crazy Lao heat) and then arranged to go for a beer at a local bar at some point... We then said our farewells and were on our way.

We finished in the museum then explored the grounds, which included a visit to the royal car collection ....Steven really enjoyed this especially as they were all 1960s cars and very American. Once we had exhausted ourselves with the sights we headed out and went to explore the Wat next door that was really quiet. Here there was one large sim and some older buildings. We had a look around and saw a Buddhist classroom and several pretty statues as well as some interesting Buddhist quotes hanging from trees within the grounds. Was really cool.

By now it was pretty hot so we took a slow walk home... Via the post office that was shut (postcards will get home eventually, have three months worth to post!!) and then the baguette lady as Steven was starving. We made it home and sat down for a nice cold glass of water and a retreat from the shade. Steven finished his sandwich then went to shower and on his return I headed in... I really wanted to freshen up before dinner and my hair was a state. After my shower I enjoyed having some 'me' time and moisturised from head to toe and put some make up on. I was going to dry and straighten my hair but thought I'd give it a rest. By now Steven must have wondered what had happened to me and had ventured back into the room where I was engrossed in Jane Eyre, which was showing on TV and one of my faves. He said he was feeling a bit 'heady' and wanted to chill a bit before dinner so we curled up and watched the film.

Three quarters of the way through he was feeling better and his appetite was returning so we headed out in the direction of town where we sought out the buffet. I was pretty starving by now and Steven seemed pretty keen, we grabbed a plate each and loaded our plates high with spring rolls, noodles, rice, veg and so on... On eating I realised why I'm not really a fan of buffets as its all 'same same but NOT different' and I always end up eating more than I need of relatively similar food. We vouched this was the last time and tomorrow would be a proper meal.

We paid up and headed off into the market planning on heading home when Steven suggested we head down the river for a quick beer so off we went. We found a cheap bar over looking the river and sat down for a beer, mine with ice (which is becoming my fave way to drink it) and chatted ...mainly about food and our travels so far before we headed home about an hour later. On arriving home I left Steven on the veranda while I headed to the room to get the iPad and dump our bag and camera. On arriving in the room I decided to have a spruce and so didn't return to the veranda for about ten mins. On arriving back I couldn't see Steven sitting outside so assumed he was on the desk top inside (he normally resorts to that because I'm on the iPad) but on arriving at the veranda I could see him sitting in the reception with the owner. I assumed he was watching footy or something but on walking in to say hey I actually had to muffle a laugh...

Steven was sitting awkwardly on the wooden couch as the (very camp) guesthouse owner sat behind him massaging his back, I'm not sure who was more shocked... Me or Steven haha! Poor boy looked so surprised by the whole affair. I asked if he was okay thinking he may have hurt himself and he said fine and politely smiled, the guy smiled and said he was very tense and I was still slightly bewildered as to the whole scenario ...this makes more sense if you know Steven, then you can understand what I mean. He is by no means homophobic but is a typical guy who is awkward with affection especially when displayed by other guys. He would be awkward enough if a girl tried... He is also very shy and not the sort of guy who would start chatting randomly to someone or end up in such a situation. He is also too polite to say if he feels uncomfortable in a situation so I although I could see how he wouldn't get himself out of the situation due to a dangerous mixture of politeness and shyness, I still was a bit bewildered how he got himself in the situation. I had to really struggle to stifle my laugh every time I looked at his face.... This was heightened when to young backpackers walked in and took a double take at the three of us. Apparently the water was off so the guesthouse owner jumped up and went to sort the problem allowing Steven to make a hasty and red faced retreat.

I wandered outside and continued with our blog and such while Steven had a cup of tea and sat at the desktop, the evening passed by quickly and soon enough we retreated to our room as Steven was feeling a little heady still. I couldn't help but probe him on my return though about his close encounter and he said he wasn't even sure what happened... He said he was standing at the wall map in the lobby and simply asked the guy how far the bus station was and he had said 2 or 3km. He enquired if he was planning on walking and Steven laughed and said yes but our bags are quite heavy and then the next thing the guy was massaging his back and telling him to sit down... Haha I could not stop laughing. Aww so funny.... I said it was sweet and maybe he had a crush and Steven was totally taken a back and exclaimed 'do you think he's gay?' now I'm not saying just because the guys massaging my significant other that he's gay but this guy has never tried to hide his orientation and seems fairly open about it even if Stevens oblivious to it. I eventually stopped laughing long enough to get in my pjs and cuddle up with the poor thing who was feeling pretty bleugh (not due to the massage... Prob more the heat and early mornings) and watched a movie till he feel asleep.