Today I woke to Steven holding a steaming hot mug of coffee and for a second I thought I was home. He was gently waking me as today we wanted an early start on the sightseeing. It was just after seven thirty and after my coffee I got dressed and we headed out into the brightness of the early morning sun. We walked towards the Nam Khan river and followed it round until it joined the mighty Mekong and it looked beautiful. We soon found ourselves at Wat Xieng Thong, which is also known as the golden city temple. It remains one of the most important monasteries in Lao and really is beautiful. It was built in 1559 by the then king Setthathirath and is situated on the north peninsular where the two rivers meet. It was previously used for the crowning ceremonies of the Lao royal family but this ended in 1975 when the royal reign was abolished. It is a beautiful building and very Buddhist in design, the roof shimmered in the mid morning light and the mirrored mosaic stories depicted on the walls simply sparkled.

On entering you firstly see the large main temple (sim) which is stunning, its one of finest examples of Luang Prabang architecture and very different from many Wats that we have seen. Most Wats tend to stand tall with high walls and relatively flat roofs while this Wat was low and close to the ground. It had a two layer long sweeping roof that from the front look almost like a child's drawing of a Christmas tree. The outside walls are covered in ornate gold stencils depicting scenes from the Jatakas and the punishment of those who commit sin. Its so striking against the black background and literally covers the whole sim... However at the back of the sim there is a large mirrored mosaic tree of life that couldnt have differed more from the front design... it was huge and very pretty... In fact its absolutely stunning. As you enter the sim you are surrounded again by the gilded gold stencilling that features so strongly outside... This then leads your eyes to the main worship area, where there are numerous decorative Buddhas surrounded by flowers and gifts. The whole place is very serene and beautiful, there is also a large golden monk statue to one side with numerous photos and offerings. The sim is very active and a few people came in to worship whilst we were there, when this happens I try to move away quietly and stay towards the back so they can have some privacy and not feel like they are in a tourist trap.

As we wandered outside I found another beautiful stupa that was pink and as stunning as the large sim. It was also covered in glittering mosaics and sparkled in the sunshine... Inside there was a reclining Buddha and one that is particular revered here. Its believed to date back from the original date of construction and is now finally back where it belongs after being in both Paris and Vientiane for many years. Surrounding the main sim are several smaller stupas, many of which are either locked or being restored... All are unique and breath taking. Towards the back of the grounds is a large building that houses the novice monks and you could tell of their presence by the large bright orange robes that were hung out to dry.

Near the main sim there is a large building that houses the Lao royal families funerary carriage. It was huge and had several large gold urns placed on the top and was beautifully decorated with seven nagas at the front. It was stored surrounded by hundreds of Buddhas and relics and was a little eery. Sadly the Lao royal family ended in 1975 when the Pathet Lao, a communist nationalist party took power forcing the then King to abdicate. The Lao royal family disbanded with some fleeing, some blending into civilian life and a small minority (including the King and Queen) being taken to re-education camps (labour camps) and never seen again... Its believed they died there from malnutrition and illness although this was never confirmed. Its funny how a monarchy can just disappear and there's no uproar, although its said that the Lao royal family were very unpretentious and unlike many royal families had little money or wealth. They differed very little from the communities surrounding them as they shared the rituals and beliefs so ingrained in the Lao culture and history.

After we had finished marvelling at this beautiful Wat we left through the east entrance and wandered down the very beautiful colonial style streets that make up this wonderful town, after a short walk we found ourselves outside a noodle shop, which sat opposite yet another beautiful Wat. Here the decor was simple and the menu simpler, Noodle soup with pork... 10,000 kip, noodle soup with pork and egg... 12,000 kip. There was also rice cakes on offer at 1000 kip. We took a pew and Steven ordered himself a noodle soup (I wasn't feeling particularly hungry this morning) and a rice cake. The dish was made fresh and came out a short time later steaming hot with the delicious fragrance of browned garlic, salty pork and fresh herbs all infused together around thick soft rice noodles. Accompanying the soup was a small bowl of fresh bean sprouts and lime which you could add at your discretion.

Steven tucked in complimenting the food greatly between mouthfuls while I sipped some water and looked at the photos I had just taken. It was only about ten thirty but already extremely hot and stuffy... Was going to be a brutal day. Steven finished up and we continued on our way in search of the museum which is now housed within the old royal palace. We walked along the river enjoying the view of the Mekong and politely declining the constant shouts of the tuk tuk drivers. Soon enough we found ourselves at the museum but it was closing soon at 11.30 and not opening again till 13.30. We decided to check it out another day and continued on our walk visiting the odd Wat here and there.

As time went on we thought we would head down to check out the Lao National Unexploded Ordnance Programme (UXO Lao) that is situated in a small building near a memorial park dedicated to a past president. Within the grounds of the organisation is a small museum that explains the history and work that is being undertaken by the UXO Lao... Basically between 1964 and 1973 Lao gained the unfortunate and unwanted title of being the most bombed nation per capita in the world. This was due to the United States delivering more than two million tonnes of explosive ordnance through more than half a million bombing missions, their aim being to block Vietnamese troops and reducing the chances of them passing through Laotian territory. Its believed more than thirty percent (80 million) of the bombs dropped never detonated and therefore still pose a risk today. This sheer amount of unexploded bombs were not helped by the war for independence during the French colonial era and between Pathet Lao and Royal Lao forces where vast quantities of heavy bombs, rockets, grenades and improvised explosive devices were scattered over this already lethal land.

Today the risk of one of these unexplored ordnance (UXO) exploding remains high and continues to maim and kill innocent civilians who have no choice but to farm the land in which they lie buried. The communities affected are already some of the most poorest in Lao and when a member of the community is maimed or killed by a UXO then the ramifications are great... The household lose income, have expensive medical bills and so on. This impacts greatly but they have little choice but to continue... One man who is a rice farmer lost most of his left arm five years ago when him and his wife where harvesting their crop and one of the UXO exploded resulting in him losing his arm. What followed was the main provider of the family unable to work and medical bills that couldn't be paid. The family have four children and they had to be fed and clothed, that man now works back in his fields but only has the use of one arm so they can't harvest as much or as fast as previously. Also can you imagine what it must be like for him to return to the scene of his terrible injury knowing the chances are it will happen again. The physical scars are merely part of the injury... The psychological effects must run a lot deeper.

Over twenty thousand people have been killed or injured by UXO between 1974 and 1998 (data from Lao UXO). In recent years the average being over 300 incidents a year, of which over fifty percent of this number is children. However since the organisation was created in the mid nineties this number has reduced greatly ...mainly through education, children are now taught the dangers of UXO from a young age and it continues through to adult hood. There was a story that was told in the museum of a young boy who came from the city to visit family, he was playing with some local children when he picked up a small ball (the cluster bombs dropped each contained hundreds of small bombs that look like a metal cricket ball) unaware if what it was. The children he was with recognised straight away and advised him to gently put it down and run... Unfortunately the bomb detonated killing the young boy and injuring the children who were already running.... How heartbreaking is that. Another young boy (pictured above) was injured by a UXO when he was six years old causing horrific injuries and burns to his upper back and right arm, due to the location of his burns and his age when injured, he now suffers with the wounds constantly opening and tearing causing huge amounts of pain and discomfort. People in Lao can't afford to have surgery regularly on burns scars like in the UK and so this poor boy is in for a lifetime of suffering.

Besides education the organisations main aim is to clear the remaining bombs making the area safe thus reducing deaths and injuries and increasing the land available for food production and improve socio economic development. This will hopefully help get many Laotians out of poverty (41 out of the 46 poorest districts in Lao have an UXO problem).

The museum is small but very powerful and had a large impact on me. Lao tends to be the quiet neighbour in Asia who no one really has an opinion about... Its always the lesser known place where people spend two weeks of their trip mainly to go tubing and to take drugs... Much of their time being spent in Vang Vieng and the four thousand islands (little to do in either place but drink, tube and take drugs). The sad histories of Laos neighbours are known and now well documented and visited but their own sad history is often not appreciated as it doesn't compare in scale. A few hundred are affected by UXO every year? That's not much right? But it is... They ended up being involved in a brutal war due to their position and many villages bombed with no idea as to why. Now people are still suffering the after effects and will for a long time yet. The organisation have managed to clear 446, 711 unexploded bombs between 1996 and 2010... Great job and that is a huge amount... But considering the amount of unexplored bombs in Lao it only accounts for 0.55%. That shows what a huge task is a head and how long it will take for land here to be cleared and for people to be safe.

It was really an eye opener and I'm so glad we visited, I even feel bad about buying that bracelet (sold by villagers who melt down old shrapnel and make cutlery, bracelets etc) the other day because although the money goes to supporting villagers and assisting the efforts.... By buying it surely I am encouraging people to source out the metal from these bombs. People buy metal detectors and will try and seek the old shells and bombs as they can make so much money through selling it as scrap. However many have been maimed or killed as the bombs have detonated and such. I felt really bad and so we bought a tee shirt as the place doesn't even charge admission?! They rely on donations and sales, for more information or to donate yourself please visit their website...

http://www.uxolao.org/

After we had read all the displays and taken in the sheer amount of bombs on display here we chatted with the girl and watched a very informative video. Local people make use of the old bombs by using them as the stilts their houses sit on, the cutlery they eat from the boat they fish in... Its crazy. After we had finished we left a message in their comments book and thoughtfully wandered down the road and sat in the memorial park for a while before taking a slow walk back to the hotel. By now it was after lunch and painfully warm. Once back I played with the kittens, enjoyed a cup of coffee and sat down to write this blog while my thoughts and feelings were fresh in my mind....

Later after we freshened up we headed out for some food. Steven was starving so opted for the buffet, I wasn't so hungry so just sipped a beer... We then headed to a relaxed looking bar for another beer and some people watching before we took a slow walk home buying me an amazing baguette on route... Yummy!! We then chatted outside and cuddled the kittens before I went to curl up in bed... Steven then chatted with his mum who was home after a weekend in Cambridge before joining me where we relaxed and read our books before falling asleep... Up early again tomorrow.