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Today we were up early for our bus ride to Luang Prabang, the bus was leaving at 8.30 so we went to grab some breakfast before departing. We headed to a restaurant and admired the beautiful view over the mountains and the sound of the river one last time while enjoying our bacon and scrambled egg baguettes. The time then came for us to head to the bus office for our mini bus... As we walked you could already feel the heat of the day ahead and it was going to be a scorcher. On the way to the bus stop we passed a boisterous group of lads who Steven soon realised where the douche bags that jumped our bus in Pai, we knew we would see them sooner or later.
The mini bus arrived and we clambered on grabbing the spacious front seats and settling back with our books... There would be a limited amount of time to enjoy reading before the journey would become too bumpy and nauseating. The journey started well and the views were beautiful as we weaved through the mountains and lush green countryside. We passed numerous villages full of excitable children and free roaming animals, the villages all stood out with their wooden walls and tin roofs that protect from the intermittent storms that are so prominent at the moment. As we passed further and further up into the hills the rains soon joined us and it bought a chill to the bus, the rain was torrential but brief and soon the sunshine was back upon us.
One thing I noticed on the journey was that we passed through so many villages that are built along the hairpin cornered roads, we passed through these villages at some speed and passed many large lorries and trucks. What surprised me was the the sheer amount of infants left to play alone outside their home and along the road... Children at the age where they are prone to chase after a chicken or after a stray ball straight into the road. I was a nervous wreck but the driver took it all in his stride and the odd adult we did see seemed pretty relaxed and not too concerned. They must just teach them the law of the road really early, its really something though considering how we wrap our children up like cotton wool at home and wouldn't dream of letting a young child play near a main road let alone on it. There were also numerous pigs, cows and chickens roaming on the road as well that were in no rush to move out of the way despite the honking of the horn.
We continued on our way higher and higher up into the hills where we soon stopped at quite a rest stop. We were perched on top of a hill surrounded by amazing views on all sides... It had to be one of the most beautiful stops we have had on any of our long bus journeys... However also one of the most expensive with it costing stupid amounts of money for any food of drink and they even charge you for the toilet. We loitered here for a while while the driver had some lunch and simply appreciated the views all around. I even climbed onto a large piece of wood overhanging the high raven for a cool photo... Soon enough though it was time to leave and we jumped back on the bus.
We continued on our way for another view hours through numerous villages with their brave fearless children and chilled out parents before we came to another rest stop. Here it was again stupidly over priced and so I didn't even bother getting out the bus, I just sat and enjoyed my book while the bus was stationary. It was two hours drive later where when we finally drove into the now world heritage site that is Luang Prabang. Here we were dropped at the bus station despite the guy telling us that we would be dropped in the centre of town. That's the thing here... Everyone is trying to fool you, as usual the bus station is miles out of town so you are forced to use the racket of tuk tuk drivers that harass the hell out of you on arrival. Apparently the mini bus is unable to come into the town as it gets a huge fine and I believe that to be a load of rubbish. My now Stevens face was almost purple and he was proper annoyed.... He hates being ripped off (especially by tuk tuks or taxis... Our personal nemesis). We haggled the drivers and eventually got to town for an less inflated price but there was no way we were walking, it was so hot and the town was a good three or four km away.
We arrived at a guesthouse but simply declined the over zealous young owner who had harassed us at the station, then followed us to town then jumped us as soon as we disembarked. We simply said no and walked off... We eventually found the guest house we were looking for (from our research on trip advisor) and checked it out. It was down a little side street and near to the very popular backpacker hang out called utopia bar where we were planning to check out later. The hotel was nice and we were shown a small air con room for one hundred thousand kip (£8.40) but as we were in a budget we asked to see the fan room as it was eighty thousand kip (£6.70). He took us downstairs and showed us a little cracker, it was the only room down here with its own outside table and chairs and over looking the lush vegetation nearby. The room itself was huge and had three beds and an en suite plus satellite tv and two fans... It was really cool and we snapped it up.
After dumping our stuff we went for a little walk but soon gave up as it was blistering hot so instead sat out front and took advantage of the free coffee and bananas that were on offer while checking out the local area on the free wifi. I then had a really nice chat with my mum for the first time in ages which was lovely before I went to have a shower. While outside we got chatting to an English guy who is travelling here (on semi retirement in his mid thirties) and he was raving about utopia where he apparently knows the owner.
After freshening up we headed out for some food at the night market, it was already dark and the town was really pretty at night with numerous small cafes all strung with fairly lights. We were located by a big hill with an illuminated Wat sitting on the top, which we walked around to get to the main part of town. Here we walked through the nicest market and my hands were itching, there was so many beautiful things on offer and I could see Steven sweating as my eyes were wide with desire. He quickly steered me through before we ended up at the end of the street where several baguette stalls sat next to crowd of tuk tuks. We found a stall selling trays of noodles, veg and such as well as fresh spring rolls. We bought a tray of fresh spring rolls for five thousand kip (40p) and they were delicious... There were five large rolls stuffed with rice and vegetables with a side dip consisting of chilli, spices and peanuts. They were so tasty I could have eaten them all night... We carried on looking for the proper food and soon found ourselves on the small street below the Wat. Here we found a place selling beers for 75p and went in to check out the menu, it turned out the beers were a ploy to get you in then you buy more expensive food. We didn't mind and instead just sipped a beer,although after a while the owner bought us out some free freshly made fries, which Steven was very happy about so we ordered another beer.
A little while later Steven's tummy was rumbling so we set of in search of food where we eventually found the night market and Steven's face lit up. Here there were these women who had stalls crammed with noodles, rice, vegetables, salad, bread, tofu and such. Your then given a plate and can pile as much as you want on for 80p a plate, which we of course did and the food was okay. I think its more a quantity over quality thing but when you have a Steven then its perfect. We munched our food (Steven finishing mine as I piled it so high knowing he would want 'extra') and sipped a beer before we headed back to our part of town where we headed to the utopia bar.
By now it was nearly ten pm and rammed... It was so busy! The bar is nice though and the atmosphere really good. The music was a bit hit and miss but the surroundings pleasant, here they were charging fifteen thousand kip for a large beer but some wise local had seen a money making scheme and so sits outside the entrance selling the same beer for ten thousand kip. Us being travellers liked this idea so bought a beer from the bar then snuck one in our bag from outside for after, this was we could save a little. While in the bar we spotted the American guy who I was chatting to about Vietnam in Vang Vieng's nightclub. We all exchanged hellos before chatting about our travels (standard backpacker chat). We then bumped into the guy from our guesthouse earlier, we chatted with him and he introduced us to the owners. He was telling us about the curfew that has been placed on the town where all establishments must be closed at 11.30 and empty before midnight. After that apparently everyone heads to the bowling alley as that is the late night establishment of choice and has a late license till about three am. We had heard about this place from the Aussie Kate and after some gentle persuasion from the English guy we agreed to check it out.
After the pub closed a group of us jumped on a tuk tuk (including a lad from Northampton) and headed to the bowling alley, which was packed full of drunken revellers. There were games going on and large bottles of whisky being downed... By the door was a huge stack of bowling shoes but most people were barefoot or in flip flops and wearing the proper shoes wasn't really enforced. We headed to the bar and ordered a litre bottle of whisky, a litre of Pepsi and a bucket of ice for five pounds (well £1.25 each as shared four ways) and went to find a free lane where we met a lovely Australian couple who were moving to London. The next (very surreal) few hours were spent bowling, drinking and witnessing the bar owner and the English guy competing over the attention of a very drunk American girl who kept falling over and climbing on everyone's lap... lol.
The merriment went on till after 3am when we staggered out to our tuk tuk and after another twenty min discussion on price we eventually headed home where another argument on price occurred... One of the guys gave the tuk tuk guy fifty thousand kip so there was no way I was giving him anything extra as that should have been the fare but the driver wasn't happy (of course) so I grabbed Stevens hand and we just walked off... We got free rides, so couldn't complain. We walked the remainder of the way (yep didn't even take us home) and climbed in to bed... I had a feeling tomorrow would be a chill day.
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