Heading out west from Katherine you come across Gregory National Park. Although it was still a few hundred kilometres to the border of Western Australia, it was the start - or maybe just a herald - of the Kimberley. Here we came across the beginning of some majestic rock formations, with the Victoria River coursing through them. At Timber Creek I came across my first boab tree. It felt like meeting an old friend. I almost felt like I was home.

There are many good walks and things to see here, if you have 4WD. If not, there is absolutely nothing. The terrain flattened out again for a while, until we hit the border. Here we had the requisite quarantine check, but we had stopped at a rest area just before to finish off the last of the mangoes. We were caught out last time, but now we know better.

As soon as you cross the border, the stunning rock formations start again, which actually form the walls of Lake Argyle. This is Australia's largest man-made lake, and was created many years ago by building a very small dam across the Ord River. All the rain that streams down in the wet season is captured and used through the dry season, forming an oasis in the middle of the desert. There is farming and vegetation, a haven for birds and fish, and even hydro power generation that keeps the whole area covered.

On our previous travels while in Kununurra we had, quite by accident, come across a group called Reach Beyond - a mission project which had erected gigantic antennae through which they broadcast Christian content throughout South East Asia. Again, quite by accident, after our return last time we became aware that several people in our church in Melbourne were heavily involved in this mission. When we mentioned we would be passing through Kununurra again, one of them called the co-ordinators there, and they offered us accommodation in a lovely 2 bedroom unit on their land. Most importantly, it was air conditioned. And that night I had the first good sleep I had had for about a week. Lovely.

We spent a few days on the mission grounds, helping out in various ways. Although the antennae are on the land, it was originally a farm and grows lots of bananas and mangoes. They sell these to help fund the mission, and also make good connections with the local community.

So we helped with the picking and packing of both bananas and mangoes, and George helped digging some holes which needed to be done for maintenance of the antennae. A lady from Perth was there, who had brought along a group of keen strong youth to help with picking the mangoes, and was selling them in various locations to raise money for a few different charities. She had six boxes that needed to go to Derby, so when she heard we would be headed that way, she asked us to carry them there. We met and got to know many wonderful people, who will be our friends forever.

On our previous travels we had heard other people talk about doing El Questro, a bush tourist resort at the start of the Gibb River Road. It was all dirt roads and river crossings - all those things 4 WD enthusiasts drool over. But for us, it was completely off the agenda. When we arrived at Kununurra, we had spoken to the El Questro people at the tourist info centre. They run a tour where they take you in their own 4 WD vehicle and show you around. But as it was so late in the season, the tours weren't running regularly. They told us if they could get 2 or 3 more people they would run one, so we left our number with them and waited. Thursday afternoon they rang and said they would run one on the Friday - the very last one for the season that was about to finish that weekend.

So they took us in their car and we did the rough corrugated roads and the river crossings. We had a hike down El Questro Gorge, which was really hard work, but with a lovely refreshing swim at the end. We then had a soak at Zebedee hot springs, until we realised there were leeches in the water. Everyone jumped out very quickly. We then had a lovely barra lunch, then a cruise down the Chamberlain River looking at Chamberlain Gorge. At the end of the cruise there was an area with small spotted spitting fish. Apparently they see insects, spit at them (by projecting some river water into the air). This often knocks the insect into the water and they eat it. We held up small pellets of fish food, and when you caught their eye they would spit at you. Then you dropped the pellet for them to eat. It was great fun, and they were spitting so hard we were all soaked. There were also catfish (or silver cobblers) and two or three huge barras, which you could feed, and almost pat. This is barra season, and they are everywhere.

Between the beautiful scenery and the great people we had met, our time in Kununurra was really wonderful.

GeorgeY's Bit

Bananas usually harbour the loveliest green tree frogs. Caught a few and sent them back to the wild. The digging was very hard; thank God it is now completed. The people there work under extreme hot sunny conditions; they do it for the love of God. After helping out a couple of days I was exhausted on one hand, but on the other hand I think I can start exporting vitamin D to those poor people in the southern states.

El Questro is designed to cater for those who want to do the tough trekking, then at the end of the day be looked after by a crew of highly skilled caterers serving the nicest meals with the coldest choice of drinks. A great way to spend as much time as money.

Fish feeding was a unique experience and is summarised in 2 points.

1. Never been spat on for that much and that long. It was non-stop and a bit annoying. I started to worry about the camera getting water logged.

2. Having hand fed the barramundi and patted the catfish I changed my view of them. I think this might be the end of my barra fishing career. Yes, that one that has never started is now gone forever. On a brighter note, not all is lost as I vow to keep contact once the barra has been plated up.