Esperance means hope, and for twelve years now we have been told how beautiful Esperance is, and have been hoping to see it. On our first trip with the kids twelve years ago, when we crossed the Nullarbor we had the choice of going north to Kalgoorlie or south to Esperance. Although it was late December, the weather was cold, so we headed north. There followed several weeks of good weather, but as we did our loop and got to Esperance again the weather turned cold one more time. It was grey and windy and rainy and foggy, so although we were in Esperance, we actually couldn't see it.

On our next trip four years ago it was winter, so we didn't even attempt it. This time we were determined to get it right. We even delayed our progress by a couple of days based on the weather forecast.

So we finally made our way there at the appropriate time. It was a long drive, with protracted delays at road works towards the end. We arrived on the Friday, which was lovely and clear but windy, and as we were tired we just wandered around town. It was a nice little beach town with cafés and restaurants opening onto the foreshore and lots of beach side accommodation. The beach was nice, but nothing special.

The next day dawned bright and warm, and we spent the day visiting the nearby beaches - firstly at Le Grand National Park, then the Ocean Drive Loop close to town. Now we understood why people are so taken with Esperance. This place is spectacular. On all the various beaches visited the sand is white and fine and soft, the water is crystal clear and the most amazing azure blue. Although Coral Bay and the Turquoise Coast had stunning turquoise water, the water here was more of a glorious sapphire blue. Swimming in the water was like swimming in liquid glass.

The Ocean Drive Loop covered several beaches close to town. The beaches were a similar brilliant blue colour, but even more spectacular as the road wound up and down the curves of the coast line, and often you would come around a bend or over a crest to see a magnificent vista open out before you. This place is truly stunning and spectacular.

The next day dawned hot and bright and balmy, so we spent the morning at one of these glorious beaches. George came across a man collecting abalone shells which he prised off the rocks with a large and vicious looking knife. George was keen to have a go - I had to hold him back.

That afternoon was the town's Christmas pageant, which consisted of a parade down the main street of all the local groups in town. They were dressed up, had made fancy floats, and paraded down the road singing and dancing and handing out lollies and toys to all the kids. Overall great fun, and a real sense of community. This was validated even further that evening with the Carols by Candlelight in the town centre, and the wonderful turnout and support by locals. Also a great treat for visitors, and a chance for us to get some sense of Christmas, which you can miss when on the road.

GeorgeY's bit

Esperance as promised. Finally its beauty shines on a warm summer weekend. The town has the museum surrounded by the original court house and the judge's dwelling, plus a few other historical shacks, all turned into souvenirs shops. The esplanade is wide and its manicured lawns offer the occasional feature, sculpture, or jetty. This is where most holiday apartments and motels are. Restaurants and shops on the main road and some branching ones make the rest of the town centre. Not bad for a small holiday town but nothing impressive here, until you drive to the famous beaches.

Most are either in Cape Le Grand or the Loop. Cape Le Grand is a National Park managed by rangers in khaki uniforms, which means you pay to enter, the amenities are fictional, and the flies are rampant. They have done a good job on parking and amenities (even BBQs are provided) but not the flies. Still, two out of three is ok. Sheltered by islands made out of massive granite boulders the white squeaky sand next to the crystal clear water and the blue colour of the sea is awesome. The sun was nice, the breeze fresh, and the water slightly cold. I stood half in the water and enjoyed the best beach on earth. At Twilight beach next day we met a guy who collected massive abalone, then in the evening the Christmas pageant and the carols. I was going to say "Sorry Broome you can do better" but as picture perfect as Esperance is, Broome has the warmth.