Carnarvon's major claim to fame is its One Mile Jetty which was built in the early 1900s to ship out wool and other products. It had a train running down the length of the jetty and into town. This ceased operating many years ago, but until recently they had a small brightly decorated engine making the journey, taking children and holiday makers to the end of the jetty. We did this on our previous travels, and were not particularly impressed, and quickly moved on.

Currently the jetty is closed for repairs, which is a blessing in disguise. Firstly it is bringing the whole community together, raising funds, signing petitions, requesting government grants etc. Secondly, with this not an option, we got to explore other things in Carnarvon, and found it a very interesting town. We found a caravan park in the middle of town, offering 4 nights for the price of 3, so decided to stay and check it out properly.

It is known as the produce capital of the area, and entering town you see avenues of banana and mango plantations, as well as market gardens and seasonal vegies. We stocked up well. Carnarvon lies on the Gascoyne River, but when we crossed the river it was completely dry. Apparently the river runs underground, and only fills the riverbed in times of floods. The locals tap into this underground flow and use it to irrigate their crops.

The other thing we noticed in Carnarvon was the wind. In Cape Range and Coral Bay we had experienced a pleasant cool breeze in the evenings, which was a very welcome change from the incessant heat we had been encountering. (We even had to get jackets out!) But in Carnarvon the wind was constant and relentless, and really fierce. Our chairs and tables were regularly blown away, and it was hard work just walking down the street. Apparently this is common from November to February, and helps take the edge off the summer heat.

Carnarvon is built on the waterfront, known as the fascine, with bodies of water branching in various directions forming different sections. There are estuaries with fancy houses built around them, there is a small boat harbour to house fishing boats and recreational yachts, and there is the river mouth and the back beach opening onto the ocean. Kite surfing is a favourite here, especially in view of the windy conditions. It is generally a very pretty town.

The other thing Carnarvon is famous for is its role in the televising of the first moon landing in 1969. Everyone has heard about the dish in Parkes, thanks to the movie. But Carnarvon also has a dish, and played an even bigger role in the whole event. You can't miss the big dish as you drive into town, and they have built a whole space museum in the area. It is an excellent museum with interactive displays for the kids, a model of the lunar landing module you can climb into in a space suit, and a simulator to try to land the module yourself. It has been visited by various astronauts over the years, all documented and photographed, which adds an international feel, as well as videos of the locals who were involved in the telecast telling their story. All in all so much better than the museum in Parkes, which is basically just a fancy souvenir shop.

The final thing we had to check out before we left was a place just north of Carnarvon called Point Quobba which had some amazing blowholes. The whole coastline is rocky and craggy, with wild waves. But in some spots there are holes in particular areas where the pressure builds up, and a huge fountain of water shoots out. Quite spectacular.

GeorgeY's Bit

As you approach Carnarvon you are greeted by Holiday Parks in the middle of nowhere, an indication of a strong tourist season. But being off season, we checked in to Coral Coast Tourist Park right in the middle of town,. Top quality facilities, pool…etc. offering a pay 3 and stay 4, with free WiFi was a no brainer.

A well serviced town with Woollies, cafes and bakeries on a wide road with a neat patch of lawn in the middle. Nice walking path along the waterfront, a bit blowy, still good. Friday night the Yacht club is open for non-members. Locals are welcoming, they invite you to join their table, share stories and offer good travel advice.

Not the best swimming beaches but kite surfing is best with the constant wind. Just to give an idea, sea gulls hover for extended times and often fly backward without flapping a wing.

Specially designed satellite dish called the scoop still stands outside the brilliantly renovated Space Museum. Fishing at the wharf was a busy experience, with constant biting of small fish who strip your bait fast, until the big one came and took the whole rig off and cut the line. It was all too quick. A great place for holidays but similar to moon landings, travel time and distance are the limiting factors.