We arrived at Jaiselmer just before dawn and made our way to the hotel.Our room wasn't ready - no surprise but the owner made us comfortable on the terrace so we could watch the sun come up over the fort - and in my case curl up and die.

The fort is like a giant sandcastle sitting in the middle of the desert.- very picturesque but it is falling apart due to population and tourism pressures.The drainage can't cope as it was built for using very little water - it was certainly one of the dirtiest and smelliest places we have been.

Next day we had a tour round the palace in the fort and a welcome stop for lunch overlooking the square.Fran is fascinated by the man selling deep fried concoctions made of bread, curried potato and chilies - fried in a chick pea batter.Needless to say, he would not have passed any environmental health inspection - the cow behind switching his tail towards the food didn't help!

In the afternoon, it was off to the desert for a look at them at sunset.Fran by this time has caught my bug and is not well.We were in a jeep which threw us around a bit.We saw some of the desert villages - seems an awfully tough life.Had the option of a camel ride - I decided to go for it but there was no way Fran would do it in her current state.The camel ride sounded a bit touristy but was very peaceful through the desert - and a bit hairy when we got to the dunes.Sat in the desert watching the sun go down and the stars come up - no light pollution so the night sky is spectacular.

Next day we have a look round an old Haveli in Jaiselmer - and take it easy as Fran is now on the mend.We leave for Jodhpur mid afternoon.