At 280kmh on the KTX train to Seoul meant that the trip from Busan lasted less than 3 hours. Seoul Station is a modern bustling place, with an atmosphere similar to an airport. At all hours it is a constant movement of people. My Airbnb is a short 5 minute walk from the station, and in the coming days this proves to be exceptionally convenient, as not only does the station handle the fast trains from throughout the country it also has 2 subway lines that pass through it.

Deoksugung Palace is in the heart of the city and is the only palace in Seoul which is open at night. As I have come to learn the Koreans love lights and they never miss an opportunity to illuminate buildings, trees, bridges etc. etc. The palace is no exception but it is done subtly and accentuates the beauty of this 450 year old complex. It's interesting to watch the palace change as the sun sets and the lights come on. A whole different atmosphere envelopes the grounds.

Gyeongbokgung Palace is the largest of the 4 palaces in Seoul. It dates back to 1395, but like most other such building in Seoul was extensively damaged by the Japanese army in 1592 and it was not until the late 1800's that a massive reconstruction program restored the palace to its former glory. But then again during the Japanese Occupation in the early 1900's it was again extensively damaged and/or demolished. Today it is a huge complex and it is quite easy to gain an appreciation of how the royal family lived. It takes several hours to cover the entire complex.

Dinner tonight is in Gwangjan Market. The market is huge, and although many of the homeware and fresh food shops are shut, there are several alleys of food stalls. Selling both "take away" and sit down meals the choice is extensive. I eventually decide on a place where you simply find a spot on the trestle seat amongst the other diners. Some dumplings in a very tasty soup seems like the go. The operator is a very friendly women who ensures that all her customers are happy with their meal.

Not far from the centre of the CBD is an area known as Bukchon. It is an area where there is a very high concentration of traditional Korean houses, known as hanok. The entire neighbour is one of twisting cobblestone streets. Whilst there are some modern versions of hanok the majority date back hundreds of years. It has also become a very popular area for artisans who still practice traditional Korean crafts such as paper making, painting and woodworking. Not far from the village is Changdeokgung Palace. It dates back to 1400 and like Gyeongbokgung Palace it was extensively damaged by the Japanese. It's quite a pretty palace and is unique in that it has an extensive accommodation area that the King built for his favourite concubine. There is also a massive garden area at the rear which occupies about 60% of the entire complex. This was specifically reserved for the royal family and includes numerous pagodas, water gardens and paths that meander through the gardens. Today it provided some much needed relief from the hot sun.

Insadong is my chosen dinner destination tonight. A myriad of alleys that dart off in random directions and all of them are lined with places to eat. Absolutely no shortage of options. From up market restaurants to hole in the wall places and everything in between. I think you could eat here every day for a year and not eat in the same place twice.

My last day has arrived and I head to Ihwa Mural Village. A few subway stops from the CBD it is little enclave where the narrow streets and alleys have been brought to life with street art. The styles are quite varied and many art and craft shops have also established themselves as well. It was quite pleasant strolling around, never knowing what was around the next corner. And the final stop for the day was Seoul Tower where the entire city was laid out below. Unfortunately the haze/smog impeded the view somewhat but it was still possible to get a perspective of the city

And so 24 weeks of travelling has come to an end. It's a little hard to believe that I left Australia during summer and I'm returning in the depths of winter. New Zealand seems such a long time ago. It's been a great trip with many highlights, some great experiences, and quite a few new friends and the opportunity to catch up with friends I have not seen for some years. I already know that it is going to be a long wait until I head off again next year, but I guess that patience is a virtue and I will just have to practice. I've enjoyed sharing my trip with you and I hope that you have enjoyed following my travels. Till next year.