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Well I wouldn't normally do a blog based on 1 day, but a visit to probably the most contentious border area in the world is a worthy exception, particularly in the current political climate.. The Demilitarised Zone runs the length of the border between South & North Korea. It's 4 kilometres wide and the actual border, or Military Demarcation Line as it is officially known, runs along the centre. So 2km of the DMZ is in Nth Korea and 2kms is in Sth Korea. And as for it a being a demilitarised zone, it probably has the highest concentration of military personnel of any place in the world. First stop was the Third Infiltration Tunnel. In total 4 tunnels have been found. They were constructed by the Nth Koreans after the armistice was signed, and were designed as a means of invading Sth Korea. This tunnel is about 1.6 kms long and is 78 metres below the surface. The Nth Koreans claimed it was a coal mine and even painted the inside to look like coal. Unfortunately for them no coal has ever been located in this part of Korea. We were able to walk along it for about 270 metres. Sadly "No Photos" was the rule.
Next stop was Dora Observatory, from where you can look into North Korea. It looks like normal countryside until you see the Nth Korean observation post looking back at you. And the never ending razor wire fence. Aside from that it's all sweet.
From there is was on to Dorasan Railway Station. This is a gleaming building built in the hope that one day there will be reunification of the North and South and that trains will start running again. Everything was there, except passengers and trains. There was even a cleaner going about her duties. It really did border on the bizarre, but also signalled the hope that is held for the future.
And then it was on to the Joint Security Area (JSA). This is the area that features in all the photos of the North/South border. We were met by a US military person and from here it all became serious, and a little bit comical, although laughing was not permitted, nor was pointing or waving. A Powerpoint presentation of the history of the war and some of the major events that have occurred since and we were put onto buses for our journey across the southern part of the DMZ. Within the DMZ there is a Sth Korean village with about 200 inhabitants, who live by special regualtions which include a 9pm curfew and doors and windows locked by midnight. And only women can marry into the village. The people here are farmers and they are guarded day and night. It feels very strange to be driving through rice paddies and other crops and all the while knowing that you are inside a highly managed and controlled military area. In the village is a flag pole which flys a Sth Korean flag. Not far from here is a Nth Korean village, known as the Propaganda Village, as no-one actually lives here, but it does have a flag pole which is 60 metres taller. Once we arrive at the JSA it becomes a bit like school, form 2 lines and follow the teacher, sorry the US military man. And don't take photos until I tell you. Yes sir! We were taken into one of the infamous blue buildings and for a few brief seconds I was able to walk around the table and stand in North Korean territory. Unfortunately no stamps in the passport for that. Whilst we were in there a group of Nth Korean soldiers suddenly placed themselves between the building we were in and the one next door. Apparently this is quite a rare event and no one could offer any explanation. But it was a great photo opportunity.
The whole atmosphere at the JSA is one of utmost seriousness. Sth Korean military standing guard at each building, half protected by the building itself. Their stance was peculiar. Slightly bent arms with clenched fists. Even inside the building there are guards, even though we were the only occupants. And there were stern warnings not to get any closer than 6 inches. It really did have a sense of high drama. But one of the strangest sensations was when were outside again looking across the border at the group of, I presume, Nth Korean tourists standing on the balcony of their building looking at us, looking at them.
I have to admit that today has been one of the most surreal I have ever lived through. A little hard to put into words but certainly an experience that will not be forgotten.
- comments
Sarah Hey Doug - such a shame that you’re not going to get the chance to spend any time in North Korea. I seethe whole two weeks feeling and experiencing what you have felt today. It was such an amazing experience - you would love it.