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Well train journey to Kolkata was a strange one as on train there was only me and one other bloke in the full set of 8 berths I was sat in. This is unheard of on these trains in an overnight train in this class. Got chatting to this fella and he told me to not chat to people at some of stations on way through as some very dangerous people around here, (thanks pal, Im going to sleep well tonight now!!). As it happened I did get a good few hours kip as not too many indian snorers on the train. Once arrived at Kolkata (Since I am in India I will use the Indian spelling of the place, for those who either dont know or are to stupid to work out this place is Calcutta and not just me typing it wrong) I walked out of station to be greeted with the sight of the huge Howrah Bridge. Got taxi to the area I wanted to stay in and ended up walking around for an hour looking for a room with a price I was willing to pay as many of the hotels were full! After finally getting to a hotel I went out for a walk to find the first port of call, Eden Gardens Cricket Ground. Walked across 'The Madien" which is huge park with cricket being played by locals everywhere you look. These people do not care as long as they have a bat they will play with anything for a ball. After walking through this I was greeted by the awesome sight of the cricket ground and you can see why this is classed as the home of Indian cricket it was imense in size and very imposing amongst the surroundings. Was a fantastic sight seeing this park with everybody cheerfully playing cricket and the famous ground in the backdrop. Met a local group playing in the nets and they were from a local team called Dalhousie Cricket Club, so they offered to let me into their clubhouse as they wanted to talk cricket after practise but I was hungry and they still had a while of practise to go, very friendly and accomodating people once again though and seeing all sport going on around I knew this was a place I was going to enjoy staying at.
Following day I went and got breakfast at a little cafe which was like an American Diner and I decided to have some western food (no curry today, I know amazing). Met a couple in here from Watford called Joe & Jess and we decided since Kolkata had a racecourse it would be good fun to go and check this out today. Were told by locals that racing started at 5pm so agreed to meet back at cafe then. I went for a walk back to Hawrah Bridge and wandered across it. What an incredible sight seeing the busy traffic of cars going through the middle with the even busier sight of people on the outside. There were people running along with huge loads on their heads and not running because in a hurry but due to the sheer size and weight of what they were carrying they would lose balance and momentum if not running!!! When across other side I decided to get a ferry back across to near where I was staying. I found there were a number of ferries and platforms to get on these but decided they seemed to all be going in same direction so any would do. Jumped on ferry which seemed to be quiter then others and then the ferry departed and up river under the bridge and further up river we went!! Doh wrong ferry had been boarded. I finally got off at a port (I say port what I mean is a pirate style walk of the plank to get onshore into a shanty town of a surrounding). Got back on a ferry down river and ended up back where I was, time was now getting on and decided best route back to hotel area was via a taxi so off into a yellow style american cab I went (no rickshaws here!!).
Got back to cafe and met Joe and Jess only for them to tell me that no horse racing as was on at 12pm so agreed to go tomorrow instead. Live football was being shown in bar tonight (I know pinch me im dreaming, football and a bar in India!) and it was Arsenal vs Villa, this guy was a gooner so agreed to meet up in pub later to watch it. Went and grabbed some dinner at a place called Princes and this is exactly what I felt like eating in this place. Proper silver service with live music. Had a fantastic Fish Tikka (oh yes more curry, nice place as well so trusted the fish here!). This was to be the most expensive meal I have had so far in India although this was probably helped by the few Kingfishers that accompanied it! This place was full of 'pimp daddies' as well with money flying out of hands left, right and centre. The guy sitting opposite me was a right cmooth operator, with his slick hair and his ciggarette and the staff all over him like a rash he looked like some kind of indian Mafia boss. Finished up food and went to bar where met a swedish couple and watched footy. Joe turned up bit later and had a beer with him.
Following day I was awoken by a knock at door and Jules had manged to sort things out down south and head back up to travel. We both went to cafe to meet Joe and Jess and headed off for a day at the races, all dressed up like in uk when I went (no not really, had shorts on and a white t-shirt which had now become more of a murky browny, grey colour). Got to race course only to be told no racing there today and that the big race day was at Hyderabad!!! Oh well still full of people and took a race card and entered the racecourse. Loads of proper gamblers in here and was just like being in England........ Got tips from loads of locals and placed a bet. Watched it on tv screen and pepole were going crazy at screens it was an absolutley brilliant atmosphere in here and there was not even racing going on. No winnings to report of though so some right good tips there, never trust a bloody indian mans tips!!
After this we walked to Victoria Memorial & St Pauls Cathedral then headed back to hotel area for an afternoon beer in the bar (got to take advantage of this bar, first I have really seen in India so enjoying the brew). The next day went to a temple called Khalighat. Now I had generally had my fair dosage of temples in India, but this one had a special appeal to me in the form of a goat sacrafice which takes place here regularly. Got metro here which is like London undergorund except not as confusing as only one line whcih goes backwards and forwards. Sat around at sacrafice point whcih I headed straight for when I arrived and got a good seat...... not really seats here but sounds good and sadistic to write it like that, and I did perch on the wall nearby so not totally false. After an hour of looking like a hungry savaged wolf about to be fed and still no sacrafice and walked outside to get a chai. When I walked back I was met by a river of blood flowing out of the temple and the smell of rotting flesh, gutted I thought, but oh no, two more fresh goats were being coaxed in to meet their fate. I watched as with one foul swoop the goats head was removed and the body flung to one side. The body continued to shake and kick for a good while after as the nervious system shuts down. The second goat obviously knew what was coming and was also a bit tougher in the old neck front as it did not come off cleanly and made a bit more noise then the first. Now this all seems a bit sick but it is all part of the sacrafice made by the family who purchase the goat and afterwards the goat is fed to the poor, so not just inhumane killing by any means, and good entertainment for the tourists like me as well. Anyway after watching all this I had built up a hunger so went looking for some food, mutton curry anyone!!!!
That night myself and Jules headed out for a good meal and some beers as was her birthday whilst she was down south so we decided to go out and celebrate. Went to a nice restaurant where once again ordered some fish. Now whilst awaiting this food the biggest rat I have ever seen appeared running across the fllor. It was huge and clearly well fed, (thought Jonesy had turned up in India for a minute there......) Really odd because the surroundings were like a really nice english restaurant and would not expect to see this here, however I have clearly been in India for too long as did not pahse me and when food arrived I tucked straight into it. When food did arrive I see why rat was this size as portions were army feeding size, what sort of person eats a mixing bowls worth of rice to themselves??
After leaving this restaurant headed to a bar which had a live band playing western music, how very strange seeing and hearing an Indian band in their 'thank you come again' Indian accents singing 'Alice Alice who the @#%@ is Alice...... Ordered myself a local brew called 'HE-MAN 9000' and trust me at 14% a pop I soon had the power of greyskull with me........
Next evening the plan was to head to Darjeeling, but in day went to cinema to watch a film called Vantage Point, whcih if out in UK I would highly recommend watching. Followed this up with a KFC so a proper UK style day was had. Thouroughly enjoyed my time in UK, sorry Kolkata, easily mistakable for the UK with their sports going on everywhere and just the general feel of the city is very much comparable to that of the UK. Anyway from a place which is comparable to the UK to an old UK hillstation next in Darjeeling, made famous for its Darjeeling Tea.
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