Arrived in Sawai Madhopur bang on time, which is incredible for Indian trains to run to the timetable like that. Got Auto to take us straight to Ranthambore Tourist Office as that is the sole reason for coming here, to go to the National Park. Booked ticket onto a Cantor, which is basically an open top safari vehicle. Had been really looking forward to this tour since reading about it back in Delhi. As we entered into the park the truck stopped and who would have thought it there was a sole tiger paw print on the floor, 'lets see if we can follow the tigers route' the guide states!! Yeah right one paw print means one legged tiger so shouldn't think we would have to much trouble hunting this one down!! What a co-incidence being right at the entrance as well...... Must of thought we had the word MUGS written on our foreheads, then again we had just handed the money over to come on this tour so maybe he was right!!

Needless to say we hunted around for a tiger for 3 hours and saw nothing. I was so disappointed with this as the place got such good reviews. I had no expectations of seeing a tiger but a deer, or any kind of animal would have sufficed rather then searching out a phantom tiger.

Decided that no point in sticking around in this town after the tour as prices are quite inflated due to high number of rich tourists who flock here in search of tigers. Therefore went to train station to get ticket to Jaipur for same day. To get there we had to get a taxi jeep and if I thought the one at Abu was loaded then this was obscene. There were buses and jeeps going past with people all over the roofs and hanging off back. This jeep ended up with five people in front Jules being one of them, witht he driver hanging out the side!! How the hell can you drive a car while hanging out the side of it!!! I tried to get in the back but there was something like 12 people already in the back, so I had to put one foot in back door, and hang onto the bars, whilst my other foot was on the metal plate at the rear outside of the vehicle. Proper local stylee. Wouldnt of been so bad but I had my rucksack on so every corner the weight pulled me one way or the other, all good fun though........

Lots of not knowing what was going on at the train station and thats form the people who work there not us.... Resulted in the bloke at counter telling us to get a ticket on the train?? Train conducter entered carriage and we were sitting on floor by the toilets (which was pleasent) with the two outside train doors open, locals sit with their feet hanging out of these doors! Anyway explained what we had been told and conducter said we would have to pay a 500rs fine each. No chance we were paying that (7 pounds thats like 5 nights accocmodation). He said he was going to call the polcie and they would be waiting at next station for us, hmm prison means free accomodation doesn't it?? Argued with guard and made a commotion to which 12-15 locals gathered around for. Explained to one local the situation and he discussed with conductuer who rather reluctuntly agreed we could buy a ticket at next station. This chap ordered a young school boy off the train to go and fetch our tickets (very much an order of rank system here in India). Very helpful and ended up with our tickets. When guard came back he still wanted 100rs from each of us as a backhander for his troubles. I refused, however Jules gave him 100rs. How corrupt. The local who had helped us offered to take us out on his motorcycle the next day for a tour of the city!!

Jules was feeling sick the next morning in Jaipur and put it down to the general pollution and smog that this large city offered. She therefore booked a ticket back to Jaiselmer leaving that evening for a couple weeks for a bit of respite. Agreed to meet back in Delhi in a couple of weeks time. Sickness? Was going to ask if I smelt or somthing but I already knew the answer to that!!! Anyway had my Samosa and Chai for breakfast and walked over to Pink City, which is very PINK and then headed over to the Albert Hall and open parks. Went into a Zoo where I saw my first glimpse of a tiger, but to be honest I wish I hadn't bothered. These animals are kept in horrific conditions with some of the spectators throwing rubbish and spitting at the animals to get a rection. Not very pleasent atmosphere in this Zoo for the animals at all.

Next day I booked onto a tour of Jaipur taking in all the big sights. Went and saw the Birla Mandir, passed the front of the Hawa Mahal, visited the Jantar Mantar (Observatory for telling local time), then onto the City Palcae and Jaigarth Fort. Stopped off at Nahargarth Fort and had lunch and then went to Amber Fort in the afternoon. All in all a good day of seeing the famous sights.

Following day I am getting a bus to Bikaner for a short stay as I want to go to the Karni Mata Temple (Temple of Rats). This is one place I read about prior to departure from UK which for small temple fascinates me, due to the number of rats festering in the place, therefore really looking forward to this (although this is written now in pre tense so have actually already been there!!)