Day Twenty-one 04.04.05 Got off to an early start as the plan was to go to the Guggenheim in Bilbao. We are staying not far from the city centre and found our way in easily. Urban planning is not Spain's strong point. The roads are a mess and although the directions are plentiful they often leave you stranded wondering whether to take a left or right. Spanish driving also has much to be desired. They take real offence cutting across them even if it is because the road sign came too late to get in the right lane earlier, only to cut someone else up themselves further along. We drove around Bilbao looking for somewhere to park a vehicle ten centimetres too tall for most urban car parks. Finally we found a space by the river and we could also see the Guggenheim! We couldn't believe our luck. Feeling proud of ourselves for finding the space and working out the parking meter (Full registration number required and undisclosed fee) we set off for the short walk to the museum. The building is fantastic which is a good thing as we walked round three sides of it to find the entrance to discover that it is closed on Mondays! At this stage we had paid for seven hours on the parking meter so decided to explore Bilbao. When your on the road around the city it looks a bit grim and full of traffic. On foot it's a different story. There are large pedestrian areas with loads of shops and bars. We visited a bar (mainly for James to have a wee) and Will ordered two coffees on his own in Spanish, James was in the loo so cannot verify this but the excellent coffee arrived with a knowing smile from the bar tender shortly after. Fully refreshed we set off for the shops. We both made purchases and then went to El Corte Ingles to have a look around. On the sixth floor there was a supermarket? We decided to save a bit of money and buy lunch here. We think it was trying to be Harvey Nichols or something but regrettably it was not succeeding. The logistics of having the supermarket this high in a department store were evident, trolley loads of provisions were repacked into small crates and taken but a porter presumably to the basement car park. Seems like a reasonable solution until you realise it takes half an hour to get checked out with a small loaf and some ham. After lunch and with four hours still on the meter we went for a walk along the river. James had worn his newly acquired red trainers for the event. A photo opportunity was seen next to a statue of a man and without a thought James stepped into very wet mud where grass was trying to grow getting muddy water all over the trainers and half way up his jeans. The photo (Which was William's idea) wasn't spoilt though as James's anger was barely visible through his smile.