Profile
Blog
Photos
Videos
Excuse me for reminiscing, but I first came to Kranjska Gora in 1985 when I was just 19 and it was in Yugoslavia not Slovenia. It is so beautiful I brought Donna here about 10 years ago and now we are both back. The taller mountains unfortunately have very rough paths and scrambles which is not Donna's cup of tea. So for our first walk I tried to choose something that would satisfy my summit hunger and Donna could enjoy. The path started fine but the higher we climbed the steeper it became, Donna wasn't enjoying it one bit. This is not a criticism just the reality that on paths like this Donna goes into panic mode and doesn't have faith in her feet and poles to keep her upright. With a bit of coaxing we reached the wide grassy ridge and the views were spectacular. Still not at the top though! The ridge went up and narrowed and eventually Donna reached her limit and let me finish it off on my own whilst she sat it out. By the time I had returned I was relieved that Donna had opted out of the last bit, if she had got to the summit she would really have struggled to get back down - steep, loose, big drops, so much so that there were cables on some sections to give walkers some security. Now came the descent! What I thought would be an easier route down was terrible. The path was more like a ledge wide enough for two feet snaking back and forth down a steep flank. That would have been okay but the path / ledge was covered very deep in autumn leaves so you couldn't tell exactly how wide the path was at times or where it actually was or where there were tree roots, rocks, and loose debris. When the path came out of the trees the path was devoid of leaves but then on the right was a steep slope and on the left was a vertical drop of over 1000 feet. I didn't get any pics as Donna just wanted to get down. I don't mind terrain like this but even I didn't feel comfortable at times. The descent seemed to go on forever but we did finally reach the valley floor in Planica where we watched downhill ski jumping (even though there is no snow yet). Quite often at the end of a walk Donna will say to me 'That was a lovely walk, thank you' but this time Donna said 'That was a sh*t walk and I have never been so frightened in my life'. In light of Donna's harsh review, I decided we would walk to Ratece and get the bus back so we could relax on our balcony with a good book and some alcohol (before it got too cold to do so). Before we reached Ratece a bus appeared from the wrong direction (off the bus route) and stopped for us where there was no bus stop, asked us where we wanted to go and we hopped on board. The driver had to think about how much to charge us, but we did get a ticket once we had paid. The driver didn't go into Ratece where he's supposed to stop and didn't stop at any of the other bus stops - we were the only passengers and Donna thought we were being abducted (Speed 3)! It did however turn into Kranjska Gora and drop us at the bus station. Very strange but very convenient, the wine and beer flowed earlier than expected. Day 2 must ensure Donna has a good day. The walk was far less demanding, all went well until on the return leg we turned to descend to see a tall waterfall. Donna noticed the sign said difficult path. Once it started to descend steeply Donna decided she would go back and use the easier route down. We were literally 15 minutes away from the valley floor and from there it was an easy flat stroll to the road. So we agreed to meet at the bottom. However my failure was to give Donna clear instructions of the route she had to take. Donna backtracked farther than necessary (my fault) to pick up a track we used earlier that day. I was waiting at the rendezvous point looking for Donna, surprised that I had beaten her there. A group of Slovenians asked if I was waiting for someone and then described Donna to a tee and told me she was not on the path I expected her to be. They had come that way but had seen Donna going up and going onto the 'high road' - the track from this morning. To make Donna's walk as pleasant as possible I was carrying everything including Donna's phone and purse! I knew she was in no danger of getting lost on the mountain as we were so close to the valley and it was clearly obvious which way it was to the road, but that didn't stop me from fretting. Donna oblivious to the fact that she had gone the wrong route was waiting calmly for me in the wrong place. For an hour I went up and down the road and trails at breakneck speed trying to find my wife. Eventually we spotted each other and Donna wanted to know where the hell I had been, I had all the food and drink and she wanted both! I was so relieved and felt so stupid for not being explicit on the route Donna should take. I wouldn't do this in the UK so I shouldn't do it here. Day 3 - we decided to spend a day apart, not because we had fallen out but I wanted to bag a big peak and Donna wanted to relax in one the local hotel's swimming pools. I set off to climb Skrlatica (2740 metres) knowing that I would have to keep an eye on the time as it's dark by 5.30pm. An early start and a brisk pace led me up and up. All around me all I could see was near vertical walls of rock, it looked like I was reaching a dead end. The map did mark the path as becoming 'very difficult'! Then I saw it - the very difficult bit was a scramble up some extremely steep and difficult terrain. I thought about it carefully and decided to turn back. I have done equally difficult routes previously but decided it was folly to go on all alone. I had seen no one on the way up at all, there was still a long way to go above the difficult section, coming down may prove harder than going up, it was going to be tight on time, I had already encountered snow on the path (that was actually frozen solid and I didn't have crampons), and how much snow is there higher up - I don't like turning back but I believe it was the right decision (I still clocked up 17 miles and 1100 metres of ascent). Days 4 & 5- both of us together again and easy walks exploring the lower regions around here and the Russian Chapel. Built by Russian POW's during WW1 along with the road over the Vrisc pass that they were forced to build. During our rambles we came across some 'Slovenian Hill Billy' huts in the woods - cages hanging up in trees, camp fires (still smouldering), lot's of bones, animal hides, an animal pit (trap), tunnels underneath one hut and a drawbridge to access one of the others built in the trees. We didn't loiter around here too long. After our last walk we popped into Charlies café for cake and hot chocolate - yum. Me and my workmate (Gary Smith) chatted two young Yugoslavian 'birds' up in here back in 1985 and arranged to meet in the evening. Both of them turned up but I'm not telling you any more! The skies have been clear whilst we have been here but it's been cold with a good frost every morning. That hasn't stopped us from sitting on our balcony to enjoy the view most days, we just wrapped ourselves up in blankets. Back on the road tomorrow. Rain is forecast for next week, but I have taken a shower wearing my briefs, merino top and reproofed RAB waterproof coat just to ensure they have stopped leaking! Too many photos for this blog! Sorry but we love the mountains, it's difficult to restrain ourselves.
- comments
Andy What a horror story! Take a long distance slap from me. Stay safe.
Tony I will take the slap, I deserve it.
Amanda So many adventures , it sounds amazing. Getting some bits wrong make the right bits seem even better ! Enjoy!
Peter Burnett When will you head for somewhere warm? Winter is coming! Love reading the blog btw keep it going. Pete
Terri Wheatley Really enjoying the blogs as is my work colleague. I hope Canada is on your planned map cos I would love to meet you guys.