Monday 12th March - we checked out of our room but Ada allowed us to lounge around and use the internet before checking our bags in for our cruise. In the harbour was the Ventus Australis waiting for us (capacity 210 plus crew) but this was dwarfed by a 2500 passenger cruise ship moored for a day visit - we wondered why Ushuaia was abnormally busy with tourists. Late afternoon we sailed through customs - no pun intended. The customs x -ray machines and personnel scanners were completely unmanned! This was our first cruise and we didn't know what to expect. We boarded and found our cabin - WOW, we will be very comfy here. Floor to ceiling window so we could enjoy the views without even getting out of bed. Next was the champagne reception. We had seen a couple of posh frock and suit shops in Ushuaia and joked about how out of place we are going to look. We made our way to the Darwin lounge (top deck) for the reception and was surrounded by passengers clad in fleece, down jackets, trekking trousers, trail shoes and walking boots. We set sail as the light was fading and shortly afterwards it was time for dinner and the vast majority were still dressed ready for a hike so we were not going to stick out like a pair of sore thumbs after all. Four courses of fine food and as much wine & beer as you liked. We were allocated a table number for the cruise and started to get to know our dining companions - David and Penny from Norfolk and Gilbert and Elodie from Canada. With dinner over it was back up to the Darwin lounge for a nightcap from the free bar - wine, beer, spirits, cocktails, whatever took your fancy. With an early start tomorrow, it was time to sink into the comfiest bed so far on our travels - zzzzzzzzzz. Breakfast was at 7.30 as the first disembarkation was at 8.15 so we weren't going to enjoy the views from bed after all! We did however spot sealions whilst lying awake knowing the alarm was about to go off. Breakfast - bacon, sausage, egg, drool. There was actually a hell of a lot more choice than that but we focused on the foods we missed and can't easily get. Our first time in the Zodiacs (Rigid inflatable boats) to land at Wulaia bay. We were given the choice of 3 walks, with the challenging one being just 5 KMS round trip. Great views over the bay and a pretty easy walk up to a viewpoint - well we didn't have to carry any camping gear so it was going to be easy after our Ushuaia treks. As if we hadn't been pampered enough at dinner and breakfast, with the 'Challenging, Demanding & Moderate' walks finished we were offered drinks to warm us up before being ferried back to our cruise ship on the Zodiacs. They had a table set up on the shore with a big tank of hot chocolate and bottles of Johnny Walker - Donna didn't refuse a hot chocolate & whisky but I had mine neat (hot chocolate only). Back on board, no time to lie on that comfy bed. A briefing about our next excursion then a buffet lunch. The dining room is very posh on offer even if it is a buffet lunch looks as good as its surroundings. If we had one of every dessert we wouldn't be able to move - must keep some control! At lunch time we had to choose our mains for tonight's dinner. The ship continued south as we move closer to Isla de Hornos. Sea conditions here can be rough but we are given the green light to board the zodiacs and head for Cape Horn - the most southerly island in Tierra del Fuego (which is the most southerly part of South America). At Cape Horn the Atlantic meets the Pacific Ocean and rounding the cape is something sailors don't look forward to - over 800 ships have been wrecked here. It was calm enough for the Zodiacs but they couldn't guarantee us a dry landing. The bar staff on board don't just serve drinks, they were standing in the water in dry suits trying to steady the Zodiacs whilst passengers disembarked. Penny suffered a wave that covered and filled her boots (which were later on dried out in the engine room), Donna & I managed to get off between waves and stayed dry. Australis have 2 ships plying this route and are the only 2 cruise ships allowed to visit Cape Horn Island, the only other visitors are private yachts and the Chilean navy. This is quite an exclusive area for boats, our sailing route is only allowed if you have a Chilean captain. There is one family living on the island, manning the lighthouse (one-year max per family). What a bleak and isolated place but it has a beauty and mysticism of its own. It's hard to believe we are standing here so far from civilization. Donna and I lingered as long as we dared and were on one of the last zodiacs back to the ship. Mad dash to get showered and changed and not be late for another 4-course dinner. Our waiter was very at tentative at what main was ordered for each seat for dinner, except we all changed seats from lunch to share the view out the window and this confused the hell out of him! So far all the crew, waiters, guides have looked after us so well, everything is so well organised. The Darwin lounge on deck 5 always seems to have free nibbles plus 24-hour tea, coffee, beer / soft drinks fridge and of course the free bar. The sky lounge on deck 4 has cakes and pastries on offer before breakfast and throughout the afternoon! This is a 'new luxurious' way of travelling for us - loving it (but eating and drinking far too much). It is not however a laze around, do nothing cruise. Besides the early start, briefings and two excursions they also fitted in 2 films - not 'Diehard' but Shackleton's fated Antarctic expedition and 'wildlife in Tierra del Fuego', and of course we visited the outside decks as often as possible to take in the scenery of this incredible area. No mobile signal or internet on board, the net result is everyone speaks to each other. We have in our first 24 hours on board met so many people that we can't keep track of the names. Looking forward to that comfy bed again.