Another National Park, another admission fee - £18 each. It is for 2 days though, but we planned to stay for 3! The tourist info couldn't advise us on what to do about this except pay to get in and don't tell the rangers you are staying for 3 days (it worked). We started our trek at the end of the line of the 'End of the World Railway'. Another narrow-gauge railway, we didn't ride it but we did see it. Uphill to a viewpoint on the Pampa Alta trail and down to the coast to Enensada Zaraticgul, site of the 'End of the World Post Office' - a shack on a pier with a very English looking round red post-box. From here we followed the costal path - the rangers map said 'Flat'. Whoever came up with that description had definitely never walked it. Constant up and down interspersed with occasional flat pebble beach sections. Headed for the visitor centre to learn the exact location of the only campsite with showers, loos, shop, etc - it had closed down! Thirty minutes later we arrived at one the free campsites and it had a loo which was unexpected - clean with soap & loo roll (and the obligatory bin to put your used loo roll in, but at least this one had a lid). Plenty of 2-man tents already pitched but Donna found a quiet, sheltered spot for us next to the Laguna. Lots of bird life here and they aren't afraid to come close - who needs binoculars. Whilst we feasted on tea and biscuits Buzzard-Eagles dived and swooped, either a mating ritual or protecting their young - we're not twitcher's so excuse our ignorance. The sun disappeared behind the mountains early so we cooked up our pasta, hotdogs and bolognaise sauce. In bed by 8.30 - very cold outside. An hour of reading and candy crush and lights out. I woke at some point feeling cold, and slipped on my down jacket for some extra insulation. Donna never stirred, her sleeping bag is better than mine (in fact her sleeping bag is mine!). It's not surprising she was toasty - she closed the bag over her head totally so not even her face was exposed. Day 2, the walk was longer due to the change of campsite. Near the summit of Cerro Guanaco (954 mtrs) the clouds rolled in and it started snowing. Kept going and was blessed with views from the top. Another night in the luxury of our tent but no hotdogs to liven up another pasta meal (Donna hates pasta). Day 3 woke to rain, so lay in playing candy crush. Finally left in the dry (but the tent was soaking). Easy walk with plenty of sightings of beaver lodges and dams but no beavers. Our hike finished at the end of 'Ruta 3' - you can't drive any further south than this in Argentina. A short wait for a minibus to take us back along the gravel road to civilization. Whilst waiting for our bus we saw the most multi coloured day tripper ever, tried slyly to get her photo, didn't manage to get her every colour of the rainbow t-shirt and sneakers but we got the rest (see the photo). We could hardly see through the windscreen for dust but the driver still insisted on passing everything in front of him. New digs at Ushuaia (Ada was full - see last blog), no kitchen so we searched for the cheapest expensive meal out we could find. Shortly after checking in we had tent inner, flysheet, groundsheet, and washing hanging everywhere. It didn't help that it was the smallest room we had ever had. We used everything going to hang things from - coat hooks, nails, curtain rail, TV wall mount, taps, shower curtain rail, wardrobe doors, table, chair, showerhead and our own washing line. Would have taken a photo but needed a fisheye lens. Later I was on my hands and knees clearing grass up of the floor (from the groundsheet). The bidet was full of grass, so I turned the tap gently to help wash it out and whoosh a jet of water got me right in the face. Now the floor was wet and grassy and I felt a right (wet) idiot - did Donna laugh, of course she did. All the hostels do daily cleaning, we were trying to dry everything so we could pack it all away before housekeeping the next day. A day off, time to buy food for another planned 3-day trek. We found out before we left that our first intended campsite was closed. We had hoped to use the bus / taxi to get here, pitch and do a day walk before setting of on day 2 to camp wild in the mountains. The 3-day trek became a 2-day trek with the initial day hike abandoned. Day 1 was mainly spent in the woods, climbing over fallen trees until we finally ascended steeply to open hills to camp at Laguna del Caminante (644 mtrs). A beautiful quite spot surrounded by mountains. More pasta and hotdogs. The toilet was wherever you dug a hole (but we didn't go). We woke to rain (again) and left in full waterproofs. A 2-hour rocky climb up to the pass taking us from Valle de Andorra to Canadon de la Oveja. Whilst we had rain in the night, higher up it had snowed. Great mountain scenery with a white dusting on top. Very rough route down and a narrow ledge like path along the mountainside for hours - not Donna's favourite terrain (the drops frighten her) but she just got on with it. Eventually we hit the road, hailed a passing taxi which was full but called another to pick us up (arrived just before it pi##ed down). Back to the tiny room again and to hanging everything everywhere. Just one night here then transferred back to Ada's with a rest day and time to plan our last few days here. Donna bought a packet of what she thought was instant whip, but it turned out to be pink custard - OMG it was fantastic, shame we didn't have any cake to go with it. Ada's son told us of a 'great' cycle ride - so we hired bikes and set off. The route out of town went through a right shi#hole of an area, with roadworks thrown in for good measure. It didn't get much better, we left the traffic behind and turned onto a gravel road. There wasn't much traffic but still enough to choke us with dust. We had several distant whale sightings along the way. Then we reached a gate to prevent motor vehicles from proceeding further. The gate really isn't necessary as the trees and terrain would prevent even a Land rover driver from carrying on. We had mountain bikes but had been told it was an easy trail. I could (and did) ride some of it but plenty was too rough for me. Plan B, we took our bikes for a walk for a few miles before giving up and turning back. There was a bitter cold wind blowing, we froze our assess of whilst having our lunch, then fought against the wind and dust on the way back. Our last day here also didn't go as planned. We had arranged to go kayaking in Ushuaia bay in the afternoon, we turned up and waited and waited but the kayak man didn't. We did have two successes in our last days here - I bought a ball and started exercises and massage to alleviate my plantar fasciitis (I'm trying to avoid the ice therapy) and we stripped off to our undies for that stressful event of colouring Donna's hair (to hide her greys)!! Ushuaia done, time to move on to somewhere new.