Chi, our English-speaking, expert cyclist and tour guide deserves his own entry. His name is cruelly difficult for westerners to pronounce. If you say Chi, that it a man's name, his in fact. But if you say, Chi, well now that's wrong. That's a girl's name. And if you say Chi. Well that's just rude. You just called him your sister. Chi is a very quiet and modest man. But being human, he has his faults. My favourite is his ability to warn you of something ...

Finally. A rest day. Time off for the legs to relax, to sop up the old town of Hoi An. Home of the £1.50 t-shirt (provided you're prepared to haggle down from £10.00). Food so wonderful that I took a cookery class. "Spling rows and caramali". Stuffed white snapper. Crispy won tons in fresh sweet and sour sauce. Don't worry, I have all the recipes written down. Somewhere. Now I know I put it down somewhere safe. So I wouldn't lose them. Ah.