St. Paul’s Catacombs

Any traveller knows that you can never see everything - so with half our time in Malta gone, we “roughed out” our itinerary for the last few days on the island. We started the week by visiting St. Paul’s catacombs, which was high on our list, and practically around the corner from our home base in Rabat....it turned out to be a unique and fascinating experience!
The entrance to this complex of interconnected, underground Roman cemeteries is on a side street, close to the main square and St. Paul’s church. Since Roman law prohibited burials within the city, the area that was used was on the outskirts of the old Roman capital Melite (now Mdina). These catacombs are the earliest archaeological evidence of Christianity in Malta.
After paying a modest (senior’s) fee of €3.50, we walked through the modern entrance into a couple of large rooms/museums - each displaying information boards and artifacts. Among other items, are 2 circular tables, set in a low platform with sloping sides. Found at the site, which was cleared and investigated in 1894, they resemble the reclining couches in Roman houses. Carved out of one single piece of rock, with various interpretations of their purpose - the most likely being a place to sit and eat for family members who participated in the annual “festival of the dead.”
Another interesting item on display was a 1st c. AD skeleton, found at the entrance shaft of one of the tombs. Although an unusual placement, it’s one of the most complete burials found at this site - having personal items such as a mug and a bowl along with it. Also found was a bone hairpin, commonly used by women during this period. When discovered, the hairpin was still in place under the skeleton’s head.
Before leaving the museum to view the actual catacombs, we viewed other items of interest - including glass beads and gold rings dating from the 2nd c. BC- 2nd c. AD, plus a commemorative stone (4-8th c. AD) - one of the few that actually named the deceased. There was also another skeleton - this time of a baby - one of the many found.....two out of every five died within the first year of birth.
First used as a quarry, the site was later abandoned before being used as an early cemetery for the Phoenicians and Romans (4th c. BC-2nd c. AD). The catacombs, which are a complex of interconnected passages, were dug later - between the 4th-8th c. AD....they cover an area of over 2,000 sq metres.
Around the 10th century they were once again abandoned until used by Christians in the 13th century. Over the following years they were often looted and damaged, until eventually the entrances became blocked.....the land was gradually covered by soil, turning the whole area into fields and arable land. As Rabat continued to grow in size this underground archaeological site became surrounded by houses...and forgotten.
Today individual entrances limit the number of people allowed inside the catacombs - which can can vary from 4-40, depending on the size of the burial site. Signs at the entrance also designate the groups who were buried there - e.g. Pagans, Jews or Christians.....sometimes members of all three were allowed. After using the stairs to descend underground we discovered that it’s a dark and dusty place. Lights are on timers - and they do go off regularly - so it’s a good idea to take a flashlight or a cellphone to light the way. In the larger catacombs it’s easy to get disorientated, so panic buttons are strategically placed for those who are lost and need to get out!
Description is difficult - there are so many places that were used to house bodies.....some stacked vertically, shelf upon shelf, while others are side by side. Many have places for a head to rest, and there are lots of tiny places for the babies. We saw the previously mentioned stone tables and lounging seats where families could gather - with food and drink - to “visit” their dead. When this site was found and opened up, it was discovered that communal burial areas were also very popular.
We spent a lot of time at St. Paul’s catacombs - and really enjoyed it.....but it certainly is not for everyone...especially for those with mobility problems - or anyone who is claustrophobic!
Before leaving through the (inevitable) gift shop, we spent a little time in a small building that’s used to educate on the need for constant maintenance and preservation. After understanding what the deterioration factors are, the conservation team have implemented measures to better conserve the site - one of which includes the lighting in the tunnels. The growth of biological organisms are restricted by using a special type of LED which has low emissions of ultra violet and infra red light. The walkways, plus structural support in certain areas, ensure that the effect of visitors inside the catacombs is minimized.
Visiting the modern, on-site toilets before we left gave us an unexpected laugh - the walls are covered with cartoon-style posters which give historical trivia. We learned that in Roman times, large pots were placed in the side streets for people to pee in....afterwards the urine was used as the main laundry cleaning ingredient - good to know....obviously bathroom humour is everywhere!
Tomorrow we aim to spend our time outdoors.