Arrived in Malta

After catching a train to Manchester, checking into a handy “Holiday Inn” close to the airport, it was only a 10 minute walk to a great pub where, with the weather cooperating, we could sit outside for a drink and enjoy a surprisingly good meal. If you’re ever in the area “The Romper” is certainly worth a visit.
The beginning of our journey to Malta was an early one. Travelling on a 6 a.m. flight, we were out of bed very early - and on the airport shuttle bus that left our hotel at 4! After having checked in on-line, we only had to drop our bags in the designated spot - which was a bit chaotic....but it was early - so most travellers were naturally a bit “testy!” To give credit to the budget airlines we’ve used in the U.K. they do get everyone loaded onto the plane efficiently and, in our experience, leave on time. This trip was no exception and we even landed ahead of schedule!
Malta airport is a traveller's dream - clean, small and calm - with a few shops, and a Costa coffee café, a popular chain in the U.K. After a much needed coffee and a chat with a lady in the transportation office, we caught a local bus to our new home town for the next 8 days - Mdina/Rabat.
The ride took just over an hour to cover about 12 km - the bus followed a meandering route through villages with very narrow streets. Construction is everywhere and the bus driver had to maneuver around a large amount of trucks and diggers! Part of the journey took us to the bottom coast of the island, where the scenery was dramatic. Sheer cliffs dropped down to the ocean, the bends in the road were “tight,” but it was well worth the extra time that it took us to reach our destination. We quickly found the house that we’d rented, where the owner was waiting to greet us.
Our new home for the week is situated in a charming private and gated courtyard - shared only with 3 or 4 other houses. The ground floor has a sitting room and a small toilet. The upstairs has a bedroom and bathroom with a private roof terrace above, reached by a flight of stairs. The kitchen and dining room is in the basement....so lots of narrow stairs to keep us in shape!
Wasting no time, we bought some supplies locally, discovering that the towns of Rabat and Mdina are only steps apart, separated by a bridge which leads through a gate into the walled city of Mdina.
After a quick bite to eat, we were ready for another walk and entered Mdina just as the sun was setting....a truly beautiful sight from atop the city walls....and also incredibly quiet. We ended our very long day with a tasty gelato, and gratefully went to bed...after being up since 3.15 a.m. we’d “logged” a lot of steps - totally approx 15 kms!
We spent the majority of our first full day in Rabat - its name means “suburb” in Arabic, which makes sense as Mdina (meaning “the town”) was the old capital city of Malta. After the arrival of the Order of St. John, Rabat became significant due to its close proximity to the capital and the surrounding farmland. Along with British rule in the 19th century and further development in the 20th, Rabat grew to its current population of approximately 13,000. Along with tourism, its agriculture continues to contribute to the Maltese economy today - we can attest to that - we have a great view of the farms and vineyards in the surrounding countryside from our roof terrace :)
During this first day, we visited the Roma Domas, which is only a few steps outside the Mdina Gate. This ancient Roman town house was accidentally discovered in 1881 when workers were planting trees for what is now Howard Gardens (a lovely park that winds around the outer edge of Rabat/Mdina). The workers discovered Islamic burials on top of much older Roman remains. Unfortunately a portion of the house and the burial site were lost in 1899 when a road was cut through the area.
In 1920-25 a further investigation was done - this time extending in all directions - and more burial sites, above the remains of other smaller Roman houses, were found. A small area was then set up to store and protect the artifacts, but was closed during World War II. Reopened after the war, the building was first used mostly for restoration, but underwent many extensive renovations to create The Museum of Roman Antiquities we see today.
Although a few of the artifacts from the Muslim burials are in the Museum, the site of the burial ground is located at the back of building,
The collection of Roman artifacts includes vases, pottery, plates, drinking cups, early lamps and personal items. This Roman Domus was more than a villa and private residence - it served as a place of business and a political centre for its important owner.
The most impressive feature of the villa is In the Atrium where beautiful Roman mosaics were found. These mosaics date back to the 1st century B.C. and were created by highly skilled artists using extremely fine techniques. There is evidence that this Domus was used throughout the 1st and probably the 2nd century A.D.
Some attractive statues that were used to decorate the Villa are also displayed. One of these marble torsos is of a young girl - thought to be the Emperor Claudius’ daughter, Claudia Antonia. Also discovered were 3 other statutes representing the Imperial family - a rarity in a private household. These finds and others give an insight into the life of an important Roman family, and how they lived while ruling in Malta. This Roman villa is one of the richest and oldest to be found in the Mediterranean.
As the sun was going down, we once again walked the ancient streets of Mdina.
We stopped for some yummy cake at The Fontanella Café - a place that we decided deserves its high reputation throughout Malta for its tasty treats.
From behind its glassed-in walls, we saw the honey coloured stone of Mdina glow and then darken......the labyrinth of streets that are filled with tourists during the daytime became empty - and Mdina once again becomes The Silent City.
Tomorrow we go to Valetta - the “new” capital.