Mdina, Rabat, Sliema and our 50th anniversary

When visiting or staying in a new place, we often take a walking tour.....it’s something we always look for - and recommend. There have been times when we’ve been lucky enough to enjoy tours that are free, while others we’ve happily paid for.....but one thing that they always have in common is a cheery and personable tour guide who is knowledgeable of their subject. These tours, especially if taken close to when we arrive, have helped us historically and geographically, giving us a real “feel” for where we are and what we want to see. Our tour of Mdina and a small area of Rabat did not disappoint.
We met our guide just outside Mdina’s main gate, which is reached by crossing a bridge over a dry moat (the moat was always intended to be dry, given Malta’s climate). For over 2 hours, a lovely Maltese lady led our group of 10 through the open air-museum that is Mdina.
Mdina is known as the “silent city” - not because of how quiet it becomes in the evening after the tourists leave - and not because cars cannot enter the Medieval part of the city. This city became “silent” when it ceased to be the capital in 1530 and only the oldest and most noble families chose to remain. With a population of less than 300 people, the city still has members of these families living here today.
One of three gates used to enter the city, the Main Gate, was where we received our first history lesson. To accommodate the building of the Vilhena Palace (1726-1728) the entrance gate was actually moved a few feet. Commissioned by the Grand Master of the time - Vilhena - it was a used to flaunt his power over (and to irritate) the local bishop. The palace is now the National Museum of History, and open to the public. Standing just inside the Main Gate, this lovely building - built in the Baroque style, by a French architect - has the 8-pointed Maltese Cross inlaid in its courtyard. Opposite the Vilhena Palace stands a watchtower - one of many that can be seen throughout the island.
As we walked the streets of Mdina, we learned that it’s honey-coloured stones are actually white when quarried, but gradually change to their softer hue after the sand coating them (carried by the winds from Africa) absorbs the rainwater.
During our tour, we passed the city’s police station, which was part of another palace. Two other large and beautiful buildings are convents - one of which now houses only 6 of the remaining, cloistered nuns. Another palace serves as the only hotel in the city - The Xara Palace, part of the Relais and Chateaux group, it has less than 20 suites - and counts George Clooney as a former guest!
There are two other gates in the city walls - one is named “The Greek Gate” due to the community of Greek merchants who lived close by. It was also the only gate slaves were allowed to use when entering or leaving the city. The British Hole” is the other Gate, acquiring this nickname when it was used as the quickest route taken by the British soldiers when accessing the railway station just outside the city walls.
The tour guide “peppered” our walk with anecdotes and observations - we saw a square and other streets where scenes from “Game of Thrones” was filmed and a lovely house that is still occupied by the most noble family of Malta......currently only 2 members of the family are living there! The family has other palaces on the island - one of which is rented to the U.S. Embassy. In the past, this family has hosted dignitaries and royals - and still welcomes the King of Spain when he visits Malta. Another house that was used by royalty - “Casa Isabella” - was named for this former Queen of Spain.
Mdina’s history seems endless - as did our guide’s knowledge....glimpses of gated and private gardens, another film location (this one can be seen in “The Count of Monte Christo”), a small closed-in balcony used by Arab women to observe the outside world, a building that housed a Jewish silk market sits right next door to a former Greek bordello - all these, and more, received our attention during the tour of this fascinating, historical city.
We ended our tour in the main square of Rabat, where a Roman temple used to sit and where now stands St. Paul’s cathedral. In what is now a “suburb” of Mdina we learned one final fact.....we were actually standing on the site where the walls of the ancient city first known as Melite (Mdina) began.
Afterwards we decided to walk around the gardens at the base of the city walls, which up until recently did not exist. We smiled a little when we remembered one of the anecdotes from our tour guide - before these gardens were built, the space was occupied by tennis-courts installed and used during British rule....the “Brits” do like tennis! Looking up at the high city walls from below, gives a much different perspective. We also got a closer look at some of the larger stone blocks which sit at their base.....these stones date back to the time of the Arab occupation.
Armed with lots of “new” knowledge from our tour guide, we re-entered Mdina to revisit all that we’d seen - now looking at everything with different “eyes.” All that was left to complete our day in Mdina was to sample a gelato from “Fior di Latte.” Made daily, on the premises, with only the best of ingredients.....what can I say, but yum?!
From research and local observations we discovered that most restaurants close after lunch on Sundays in Malta. Our 50th wedding anniversary happened to be on a Sunday, so we decided to celebrate the occasion at a lovely restaurant the night before. Owned by the previously mentioned Xara Palace Hotel, we chose “The Medina Restaurant” (not sure why the spelling is different to the city?!). Situated just off the main square - in a narrow street in what was originally a Norman house - it’s a lovely building...built with Mdina’s honey-coloured stone it also has a very pretty garden courtyard in its atrium. Having chosen and reserved a corner table in the courtyard, we were a little surprised upon arriving to see that the tables there had been combined into two long ones and set up for a large group. The restaurant manager, Carl, was very apologetic and offered us a choice of any of the other tables in the smaller, more intimate dining room....assuring us that the doors to the courtyard would be kept closed in order to limit any noise.....and while we were deciding if we would be staying, he served served us with complimentary champagne in the cosy bar. Hard to say, no? Indeed!.........and so....our anniversary dinner was special - and everything that we could have wished for. Our corner table in the dining room was perfect, our waiter friendly and attentive and the food was excellent. The restaurant took good care of us with dessert, coffee and liqueur on “the house.” The large group in the courtyard was either quiet, or those old doors and Norman walls kept the sounds muffled. Walking home there was even a romantic moon to light our way through those eerily quiet streets!
The next day, our actual anniversary, was sunnier and warmer than we’d been having, so we decided to take a break from history - although in Malta it’s all around - and go to a coastal area that is more popular with the “sun & sand” crowd - even though there’s not a lot of actual sand there!
The bus ride to Sliema took about 45 minutes, taking us cross-country, heading north east towards the coast. Once little more than a fishing village, Sliema is nowadays not only a popular tourist resort, but is also a much sought after residential area. It blends the hustle and bustle of a small city with an easy going lifestyle. Close by, to the south, is Valetta. Just to the north is the lively nightlife of St. Julian’s - so Sliema’s location offers a wide variety of choices - culture and history plus restaurants, bars, cafés and shopping.
Getting off the bus in Sliema, we were directly on the seaside promenade which stretches 2km in length. This wide, long walkway has many attractive parks, plus a wide variety of places to stop for food and drink along the way. By spending a good part of our day walking along the promenade, we were able to take full advantage of endless views of the Mediterranean.
Although lacking in sandy beaches, Sliema is a favourite place for swimming, thanks to the “Roman Baths.” Sheltered from the open sea, these rectangular pools cut out from the rocks have ladders for handy entrance and exit. They are, however not Roman, but actually date back to the Victorian era. We happily watched the swimmers from above, while perched on a lovely outdoor terrace, with a beer in our hands!
Before catching the bus home we had a quick snack from a Pastizzi kiosk. This traditional savoury, Maltese pastry is sold everywhere - but mainly from small “hole in the wall” shops. Filled with either Ricotta cheese or mushy-peas it’s a popular Maltese “snack.” We shared one of each - they were small - but at €1 for both - we considered them a bargain! We are English, so we did of course, prefer the one with the mushy peas!
Back in Rabat, we ended our anniversary weekend with dinner at an Italian restaurant that fortunately was open on a Sunday night....and it was just around the corner from our “digs.” Recommended by our local host/owner, it’s advertised as having the best pasta outside of Sicily.....not sure about that, but they did serve big and tasty portions of food.....and the largest glass of house wine that we’ve ever seen - even though celebrating..... I didn’t even drink it all!