Valetta

Malta is an island, covering approx 122 sq miles, with the 7th most dense population in the world - and it’s growing faster than anywhere else in the E.U......consequently traffic is a problem. With no train service, the only option for public transportation is the bus.....there are, of course, taxis - plus cars and scooters for rent - but everyone on the road still has to deal with the traffic jams. The summer is, apparently, horrendous on the roads - which we can believe after experiencing what it’s like to travel around here.....and it’s only May!
When we travel away from home we try to use public transportation as much as possible, so even after our long and circular route from the airport, we “jumped in” and bought a 7-day bus pass - for €21 each - which can be used anytime on any bus during that time period.....a great deal. Nothing on this island is far away, and the buses are a great and economical way to get around....but patience is needed - it takes a long time to get anywhere!
The bus “terminal’ in Rabat/Mdina is very close to where we’re located - the attractive area of Howard Gardens. With open air seating and 3 or 4 large kiosks in the park, it’s very easy to grab a snack or a drink before or after a journey.
Our bus ride to Valetta took about 30 minutes. When travelling through one town we noticed the remains of a long and ancient aqueduct.....an elderly gentleman seated behind us, explained its history and significance - friendly people on these buses!
Getting off the bus, our first sight of Valletta was a large open square, with a lovely fountain at its centre. With the high walls of the fortifications rising above us, we made our way to the Upper Barakka Gardens which provide a panoramic view of the Grand Harbour. The arches in the garden, which were built by an Italian Knight in 1661, still remain today......fountains and monuments were added in the 19th century.
There’s a handy outdoor café in the gardens, which also enjoys a harbour view.
We’d planned our arrival to coincide with the firing of the “saluting guns,” which take place twice daily - at noon and 4 p.m. We managed to find a good place on a large balcony to watch “the show” from the upper terrace. This reenactment is accompanied by a brief explanation from one of the guards, who gives details of its significance - its firing was often used to greet visiting naval ships.
The city of Valetta was completed in 1571 by the Knights of St John, who planned the city as a refuge for injured soldiers and pilgrims during the Crusades in the 16th century. Prior to that, only a small watch tower, St Elmo, had stood on its bare rocks. The Grand Master at that time - La Valette - realized that if the Order was to maintain its hold on Malta, it had to provide adequate defences.
This new city, with its strong bastions and deep moats, quickly gained importance. With a unique street plan, Valetta was planned with its defence in mind......based on a grid, some of the streets get steeper towards the tip of the peninsula - and some stairs were constructed to allow easy climbing for knights while wearing heavy armour!
Many centuries later Valetta was badly damaged during World War II, when it was heavily bombed - but the city survived, and still managed to retain its 16th century charm and elegance. When this smallest capital in the E.U. was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site it was described as “one of the most concentrated historic areas in the world.”
Leaving the gardens we made our way through an attractive, pedestrian shopping precinct to St. John’s Cathedral - where, before entry, all bags are checked. In addition, its visitors are expected to dress appropriately - shawls are provided for anyone wearing a sleeveless top, and hats cannot be worn. To protect the marble floor, high-heels are also not permitted.
Built between 1573-1568 as a place for the Knights to gather together for prayers, the inside was revamped during the 17th century. Done in the baroque style, it’s very flamboyant! Every wall and pillar is decorated lavishly with vibrant colours & gold. The floor has over 400 coloured marble slabs, dating back to the early 17th century, covering the tombs of the Knights. The vaulted and barrelled ceiling, painted by Mattia Pretti between 1661-1666, depicts the life of St. John the Baptist. Pretti’s work can also be seen in many other places in this cathedral, including one of the many chapels.
To be honest, we found this building more of a tribute and a showcase to the Knights of St. John, than a place of worship.....but it is extravagantly beautiful - and a must see....the art work alone is outstanding!
For us, the greatest treasure in the cathedral is to be found displayed in the Oratory - two paintings by Caravaggio. At one end is “St. Jerome Writing,” Caravaggio’s first painting after he reached Malta in 1607. As always in the artists’s work, the contrasting light and dark, plus the anatomical detail of the ageing St. Jerome’s body amazes. The painting which was stolen in 1983, found again in 1987, was (thankfully) restored and returned to the cathedral in 1991.
At the other end, and seen immediately upon entering the room, is Caravaggio’s largest work, “The Beheading of John The Baptist.” This huge work, measuring 12 ft X 17 ft, painted in the summer of 1608, was always intended for the Oratory of St. John. It’s also the only work that Caravaggio ever signed (the outline of his signature can be seen in the splash of blood from the severed head of John The Baptist). Taken from a dramatic event in the Bible, the painting once again shows the technique of contrasting light and dark (Chiaroscuro). The light streams onto the torsos of both John and his executioner. Also highlighted are the faces of the three by-standers, only one of whom is showing any concern. In the top right corner, a small amount of light shows two prisoners watching the scene from behind a grill.
Feeling amazed and awed - and more than a little stunned - we left the Cathedral to continue our exploration of Valetta. We strolled through narrow streets to a lovely, large and open square, where a monument commemorates the Maltese Revolution in 1919. It was here that a large crowd gathered - over a period of just 2 days - to protest against British rule. On June 7th the British soldiers opened fire into the unarmed crowd, killing three, with another killed the following day. Two more died a few days later from their wounds. These events led to many changes in Malta, including being granted Self Government in 1921.
Thinking that between St.John’s Cathedral, the works of Caravaggio and the revolutionary statues, we’d had enough drama for one day, we continued our strolling through more of Valletta’s lovely old streets. When we stumbled upon the Lower Barakka Gardens, we sat under the shade of an olive tree and enjoyed a beer! These gardens, which also have a beautiful view of the entrance to The Grand Harbour, have flower-beds and fountains plus a monument to mark the 50th anniversary of Malta receiving the George Cross in 1942. Awarded by King George VI in a letter sent to the Island’s governor, “to bear witness to the heroism and devotion of its people” during the great siege they underwent in the early part of World War II.
We left Valetta, marvelling that over a period of almost 5 centuries it has evolved from the “new” fortified city of the Knights of St. John into the city we see today. This small capital, which has welcomed heads of state and artists, is now filled with wine bars, restaurants and cafés.....it also hosts numerous cultural events and is the permanent seat of the Maltese government.
Although we only managed to spend a small amount of time here, we consider ourselves fortunate to have experienced Valetta. The view of Malta’s Grand Harbour is often described as the most beautiful in the Mediterranean - how lucky are we to have seen it?!