Marsaxlokk, Birgu and Dingli Cliffs

After the fascinating, but “heavy” time spent at St. Paul’s catacombs, the following day we went to Marsaxlokk - a completely different “kettle of fish” - literally!
Although it took 2 buses (changing in Valetta) to reach the small fishing village, It was certainly worth it. This popular tourist destination has a daily market and a laid-back atmosphere. There are 2 Forts within a 15 minute walk of the village, but we decided to give them a miss and spend the day outdoors. With a population of just 4,000 residents, Marsaxlokk is the perfect location to do just that. Although there were plenty of tourists around, it’s still a quiet place, and seems a long way away from the hustle and bustle of the busier towns.
Arriving around mid-day we were too late for the daily fish market, which is famed for offering a wide selection of the finest fish (a large quantity of which goes to restaurants throughout the island). There’s also a Sunday fish market which is popular with the local Maltese. We did, however, enjoy the daily market that sells souvenirs and tasty treats. Located along one side of the harbour, we sampled quite a few edibles that were offered to us by friendly vendors - finally deciding on a couple of (large) bars of nut-brittle. This local version is a delicious mixture of nuts and seeds, held together with honey.....and quite “more-ish!”
While walking back and forth along the waterfront, we watched the local fishermen mending their nets - the harbour behind them is full of traditional, colourful Maltese boats (Luzzu), that they still use. Restaurants, bars and cafés line the waterfront, so there’s lots of opportunity to try local fare - especially fish and seafood. We stopped at one of these cafés and spent quite a bit of time enjoying the lovely water views - and some nice cold beer.
Before leaving Marsaxlokk, and while waiting for the next bus, we had a few minutes to pop into the small village church. This pretty little church, built in 1897 and dedicated to the Madonna of Pompeii, has an interesting paper maché statue of the Madonna and child, commissioned from Italy in 1900.
Shortly afterwards we were back on a bus - having decided that with some time left in the afternoon, we would be able to see a little of the old city of Birgu. Once again, it took two buses to get there - this time travelling from Marsaxlokk, we changed in the town of Paola before continuing onwards. Paola was named after the Grand Master when it was founded in 1626. With the largest parish church in Malta, an attractive shopping square, plus a Hypogeum that’s a UNESCO world heritage site, we could have easily spent the remainder of our day there....but we kept repeating our mantra, “we can’t see everything,” and so we boarded the next bus to Birgu.
With stunning views of Valetta across the Grand Harbour, Birgu - also known as Vittoriosa - is the oldest of the Three Cities of Malta, known collectively as Cottonera. Together with Senglea (Isla) and Bormla (Cospicua) these fortified cities were founded by the Knights of the Order of St. John in the 16th and 17th centuries - but they are much older. With only a combined population of 11,000, the trio of medieval cities are small, but can rightly claim to be the cradle of Maltese history. Their inlets have been used since Phoenician times - always providing a living for the many settlers who stayed and became locals. Wherever people came from, these three cities were always willing to provide a home. With the arrival of The Knights, palaces and churches were built - plus forts for protection.....most of the buildings pre-date the ones in Valetta.
As we were quickly running out of days in Malta, we spent time only in Birgu - which along with the other 2 cities gives an authentic glimpse of Maltese life and its history. The bus dropped us off at a small central square with a couple of local shops and cafés. We took our time while wandering aimlessly through lovely, narrow alleyways - the city is tiny - only 800m long and 400m at its widest point.....so it’s hard to get lost!
Eventually we made our way down to the waterfront, with its lovely promenade and yacht marina. Here is definitely a place for the well-heeled! Part of the Birgu Waterfront Project, the marina is filled with expensive yachts, many of them with whimsical names - and toys.....one, named the “Playpen,” even has an open-air cocktail bar handily located in its stern! Also part of the restoration is the Maritime Museum and the magnificently restored Fort St. Angelo. Along the promenade are several waterfront places that provide entertainment and fine dining - all with magnificent views.
Continuing with our “overview” of this attractive small city, we walked the promenade, admired the boats and climbed up the many steps to the Fort, where we were rewarded with some spectacular views of Valetta. The Fort was closing, so we made our way back down and along the promenade. Following the winding, narrow streets uphill into the city square, we caught our bus back to Valetta and then “home.”
On the way in and out of Birgu we were able to catch glimpses of Senglea and Cospicua - both looked interesting and as visually attractive as Birgu. ***Our travel tip would be to put The Three Cities close to the top of your list when visiting Malta - unfortunately we did not....but hope to return someday to rectify our mistake!
Our last day in Malta was again spent outdoors looking at the ocean - but this time it was not tranquil and peaceful harbour views, but the much more dramatic scenery of Dingli cliffs.
The village of Dingli sits on a plateau 250 metres above sea level - one of the highest points on the island. With a population of approx 3,500, it’s just 2km from Rabat, as “the crow flies”......the bus, of course, goes a little further afield - but it is, nevertheless, a short ride before reaching the edge of the village and the Cliffs.
We’d first glimpsed these breathtaking views on Malta’s west coast while on our bus ride from the airport - right then we’d decided to return before leaving. There’s no real path along the top of the Cliffs - only a short boardwalk close to the village, before a choice has to be made. To continue on this 2km stretch, it’s either scrambling over rocks and shrubbery along the cliff-edge, or walking at the side of the road while keeping one eye on traffic - it’s a narrow, windy road so it’s a good idea to watch out for trucks going to the local quarry.....we did a combination of both! The views of the Mediterranean far below, and away to the horizon, are simply stunning! A couple of small, uninhabited islands can be seen offshore along with several lovely inlets. Although it must be challenging to reach, there are a few houses scattered below with tiny access “lanes” which we passed along the way. Despite the inhospitable conditions, there’s also signs of agriculture - which has actually thrived over the centuries....most of it taking place on narrow, terraced strips. Surprisingly, we even spotted a couple of swimming pools far below!
Our walk took us past the Church of St. Mary Magdalene, which sits at the edge of the cliff, and at 253 metres above sea level, is the highest point on the island. Built in 1646, the structure of the current chapel dates back to the 17th century. Unfortunately the tiny chapel is closed to the public. This chapel, a communication tower plus a few scattered houses are the only things that may briefly detract from the breathtaking views. ***A word of caution - there are no facilities of any kind along the road or cliff walk - so take plenty of water - and If “nature calls,” there’s only a few stone walls to stand against - or crouch behind - to protect your modesty!
The quarry comes into view just as the road turns inland, away from the coast, and it’s here that we turned around and made our back along the Cliffs. For those who want to continue onwards, there are 4 more kilometres of rugged terrain before the road re-appears and winds down to the Blue Grotto.
Arriving back at the edge of the village, we stopped at a place we’d passed on our way out. “The Cliffs” is a cross between a café and a restaurant whose indoor and outdoor areas blend seamlessly into each other. Serving only local food, with “cultivated vegetables and wild herbs,” it’s open for lunch and dinner. “The Cliffs” was a bit of a surprising find, given it’s remote location.....not everyone is willing or able to walk these cliff-tops, as evidenced by seeing only a few people along the way. We sat in the glass-fronted, outdoor terrace - shielded from the sun by a large awning. The immediate view was of wild flowers & herbs - including some very tall fennel. With the ocean beyond, it was the perfect resting place after our cliff rambles - and there were toilets!
After sharing some very tasty bruschetta - and a large slice of chocolate cake - we walked into Dingli village and caught the bus home - which was either very early, or on some schedule that we’d never seen!
We spent our last night in the magical and mystical city of Mdina - ending our time here as it began - wandering the streets. Even with daytime crowds, it’s a special place, but at sunset when the city becomes silent and (almost) empty, it truly is unique. With a touch of nostalgia, we entered through its gate and made our way through the narrow alleyways - which even after our short time here had become familiar. Entering our favourite squares, we also took a last look at the palaces and lovely buildings. We finally reached the ancient walls and, along with only a few other people around, we stared out at the surrounding countryside. Once more as the sun set, we watched the stones of Mdina begin to glow. ****note - if anyone is looking for a romantic place, Mdina at sunset is hard to beat!......but.....apart from romance, everyone needs sustenance....so off we went to “Fontanella,” - where we’d previously enjoyed “The best cakes in Malta”- one cool & rainy evening at the beginning of our week long stay.
“The Fontanella Tea Garden” was started as a hobby, 44 years ago - when it opened it was the first of its kind in Malta. With only 2 cakes on offer - one chocolate, the other strawberry meringue, the owner never expected it to be the success it is today. Still owned by the same woman and established in the garden of her grandmother - Louisette Sant Manduca - the café was named for its fountain. Nowadays, with over 20 cakes baked every day, the café is renowned throughout the island. The original 2 cakes are still baked following the same recipes - and we can certainly vouch for their yummy-ness! Available throughout the day, or as long as supplies last, there is a gradual change at “Fontenalla” when evening comes around - cakes are still popular, but somehow the magic of Mdina goes to work as the ambience changes and more substantial eating begins.
With a choice of “Al Fresco” dining, or a similar experience from behind glass walls, the restaurant and wine bar areas overlook the city, the ancient walls and the countryside beyond. Aptly named, “Vinum” - the Roman word for wine - the bar is decorated with replicas of Roman artifacts found in nearby Rabat. The wine list is long and impressive, and the food menu offers a wide selection of tapas, salads and pizza, plus grilled meats and fish. We shared a pizza of salty Mediterranean prosciutto, its top scattered with arugula and a generous amount of shaved Parmesan - thin-crusted and bubbling up in places, it was delicious. To combat all that saltiness, Trevor enjoyed an extra large bottle of non-alcoholic beer, while I quaffed a very pleasant, dry rosé. We decided to share the pizza, hoping to finish with a piece of cake - but it was not to be....we were actually too full!
The next day although we had an early plane to catch, and an overnight stay at the airport hotel in Manchester before our trans Atlantic flight home, we still lingered a little longer than was sensible that last evening in Mdina. Eventually we left “Fontanella” - and the lively ambience of a young-ish crowd - to walk home through the contrasting stillness of the “silent city.”
We were, of course, tired and more than a bit grumpy the next day - especially when the “direct” bus to the airport “sailed” past us - over 10 minutes early - just as we were a few steps way from the bus stop.....but was it worth it to stay up extra late? Definitely - who could resist a last chance to experience the magic and romance of Mdina?.....certainly not us!