MYANMAR

And so another chapter begins as we all branch off to various destinations. Tanya and I had an early start as our speed boat was picking us up at 7am to take us to Koh Samui. It was expensive but we didn't want to miss our flight as we had a connecting flight to Yangon in Myanmar. Things were looking good until we checked in. Unfortunately there was an issue with my visa and therefore couldn't be checked in to my flight to Yangong. The lady at the desk was an angel sent from the heavens above and she helped me re-apply for another visa. I was surprised at how calm Tanya and I remained. Being in the land of all things Buddha has definitely rubbed off on us. It was all beyond our control and as we flew to Bangkok I crossed my fingers and prayed to all the Gods for a good outcome. Luckily, by the time we landed, my visa was approved and the second angel from the heavens checked us into our flight to Myanmar. I only have high praise for the two ladies of Bangkok airlines. May they be surrounded by only good karma. We arrived in Yangong (Rangoon) and were met by Giovanni our guide. He was softly spoken and so lovely, as he introduced us to the city. Although the predominant faith in Myanmar is Buddhism, people in his village follow Catholicism which explains why his name and those in his village are all Italian. We swiftly checked into the Savoy Hotel and made our way to the Shwedagon Pagoda to see the glimmering light from the sun on the golden spires. The Burmese take their Buddhist faith very seriously and there is a constant stream of devotees bringing offerings to the various shrines. The complex is impressive and even more so is the impact it has on the people. You could literally sit for hours and watch people and monks walk by, praying and offering their respects with the changing light as the sun rises and sets. After sunset, Giovanni took us to a restaurant near our hotel to sample the local cuisine. It was quite cheap and very interesting. As we had a full and very long day we had an early night and as soon as our heads touched our pillows we were in the land of slumber.

The next morning Giovanni took us to the harbour to see the hustle and bustle of morning rush hour. It was a sight to behold and we were so grateful to have been given the chance to catch a true yet small glimpse of local life in the city. The taxi boats with its steady stream of passengers is quite impressionable and there seems to be a constant movement of men carrying heavy cargo of rice, bananas and other goods to and from the harbour ready to sell at the markets. It is a hive of activity with a distinctive buzz in the air. We then walked around the city with its colonial buildings which are now dilapidated and in much need of renovation. Unfortunately due to lack of funding they will remain in their condition, consistently crumbling until they no longer exist. It is something that saddens our guide as he views the country's colonial history with pride. The heat and humidity was overwhelming and we struggled not to wilt like the delicate flowers that we are. Luckily we stopped at Kye Mone tea shop for a little break and to enjoy more local delicacies. The meat samosas were delicious and soon became one of our favourite snacks in Myanmar. Then we went back to our hotel to escape the sweltering heat and take a refreshing dip in the cool water of the pool. We had a few hours relaxing poolside and then we went back to the Shwedagon Pagoda for a further bit of people watching, in the hope of capturing one or two monks in action. Among the defining sights of the country are the ever present monks in their wine coloured robes. Theravada Buddhism is the main faith in Myanmar and is followed by approximately 89% of the country's inhabitants. The Burmese place a great importance on Buddhist philosophy and it is so evident in the welcoming, honest and non-confrontational way the people conduct themselves. Once again we tried to capture the mood of the complex and to soak in the magical and spiritual atmosphere. We had dinner at another local restaurant and were pleasantly surprised at how nice the food was. Yet another early night followed as we had an early start the next day.

Giovanni picked us up at 05:30am for our flight to Bagan (Pagan). The domestic airport was a rather interesting experience which I'm glad we did not have to negotiate ourselves. It was like an organised chaos with tourists milling around not sure where to go and how to proceed. Yet everything seemed to work harmoniously. In Bagan we were picked up by Mr Han, our short yet rather jovial tour guide for the next two days. We began our day straight away with a visit to some of the many temples Bagan had to offer. The first stop was the Shwe zi gone Pagoda with a beautifully ornate stupa, decorated in gold leaf. It is supposed to house one of four replicas of the Buddha's tooth, all of which are scattered in pagodas around Bagan. The next stop was Gubyaukgyi, an 11th century temple and one of the oldest in Bagan which still retains some fine original stucco work on its exterior. Then we drove to a view point to witness the scale of the region and see just how many temples and pagodas were dotted around the flat landscape. By the start of the 13th century Bagan had become known as the city of four million pagodas. Over the next four or five centuries Bagan was left to the elements and was considered by many as a region haunted by nats (spirits). The earthquake in 1975 destroyed almost half the pagodas and although what remains today may be just a glimpse of Bagan at the height of its powers, it is still an impressive sight to behold. Then we went to the Sulamani Temple, its name translates as Crowning Jewel. The temple was built on two major levels with porches at the cardinal points and seven tiers of ascending terraces. The last stop was Dhammayangyi Temple, a massive walled temple. It is the largest and best preserved of all of Bagan's monuments. The temple was built in the late 1160's during the reign of King Narathu. He was said to be a violent psychopath who murdered his father and elder brother. The colossal size of the temple was meant to be a gesture of his atonement for the killings however it did not erase his nasty streak as he later strangled his Bengali queen. Although the outside is said to have the best masonry and brickwork, the locals say the temple is haunted and as a result it is not as well maintained on the inside as the others. After an exhausting morning we sat down for a bite to eat and then we checked into the Hotel @ Tharabar Gate. It's a luxury boutique hotel set in an oasis of dense greenery in a prime location near the river and ruins. As we had a few hours to relax before sunset we enjoyed a refreshing dip in the pool. The weather was a bit grey and overcast which meant we had the entire pool all to ourselves, so we spent an invigorating hour doing lapse surrounded by elephant statues which encircled the pool. It was such bliss and we truly savoured every moment. Later on Mr Han picked us up to visit the whitewashed Ananda Temple. It is the most revered by Burmese Buddhists and is among the most impressive temples in Bagan. For sunset we went to the Shwe San Daw Pagoda and climbed the steep steps leading to a spacious terrace at the base of the stupa. The views over the archaeological zone are magnificent however the miserable weather meant our wish for an amazing sunset was not granted. Slightly damp and muddy we headed back for a delicious dinner at one of the local restaurants and had an early night.

We were picked up at 5:30am the next morning for our sunrise balloon ride over the temples, however due to the bad weather our flight was cancelled. We were so disappointed as we were really looking forward to it but I guess the weather is completely beyond anyone's control. After breakfast Mr Han took us back to the Shwe San Daw Pagoda for a morning view of the surrounding temples. Then we went to New Bagan which was created in the 1990's to house villagers relocated by the military government from Old Bagan. Here we visited the Dhamma ya za ka Pagoda which is the largest and most impressive in the village. The gilded stupa rests on three hexagonal terraces studded with five smaller shrines that contain Konbaung-era Buddhas. Next to the pagoda is the Oak King temple which we climbed for more views of the area. Then we drove to Minnathu Village and spent some time visiting the families that live in the village. They were so sweet and hospitable and offered us their local delicacies with green tea. Their homes were very basic and their lives are very simple but their kind and welcoming attitude was so humbling. It really puts into perspective how lucky we are and just how much we take for granted. Next we visited the local school where the adorable children were playing and learning lessons. They were so happy and inquisitive as we gave them balloons to play with. After our visit with the villagers we headed to Bagan House which is a traditional lacquerware shop and workshop. Here we learnt the art of making lacquerware and how labour intensive it is. There were various stations where people were working on the various stages until the finished product is reached. It was so interesting and gave us a new appreciation for handmade wares. Lacquerware is a unique product to the region and remains deeply ingrained in the fabric of Bagan's past and present. All shopped out we headed back to Old Bagan to the Shwegugyi temple for our final sunset. It was so peaceful and beautiful and we soaked it in until the sun finally dipped into the horizon and vanished from sight. Tired from a long day and in much need of a shower we made our way back to our hotel for an early night.

We grudgingly rose at 4am to board the RV Panorama for a 12 hour boat trip up stream to Mandalay. These early starts were killing us but we had another four days of culture and great experiences ahead and were excited for the next part of our adventure. The sun was shining and we sat on deck enjoying the views of local life along the banks of the Ayeyarwady River. The staff on board was great as they tended to all our needs. They even provided demonstrations on how to wear the Longyi (A sarong-like tube of fabric worn by both men and women), apply Thanatkha (a yellowish-white cosmetic paste made from ground bark and used as protection from the sun) and prepare a traditional Myanmar salad (a pickled tea leaf salad which is a national delicacy). It was so relaxing and a great pause to our otherwise hectic schedule. We arrived in Mandalay around 5pm and our guide Thit Thit Wai and driver Than Htike Oo whisked us away to the Hotel by the Red Canal. We settled into our lovely room overlooking the pool and had dinner at the Spice Garden restaurant. The food was delicious and specialises in Indian and Myanmar cuisine. We will definitely dine here again. Then it was off to bed to catch up on some much needed sleep.

Fortunately our day started at a more civilised hour and at 9am we drove south of Mandalay to Inwa (Ava) to a small local jetty where we boarded a small boat, south of the Ava Bridge. It is only a short ride across the tributary of the river to get to Ava. It was once the capital of the Burmese kingdom for nearly 400 years between the 14th and 19th centuries. Our next mode of transport was a Pony and trap. We climbed onto a small and rickety cart attached to possibly the smallest horse in the herd and sucked in our breath to lighten the load for the poor little creature. To the sound of the clip clop of little hooves we rode off to explore the ancient city of Ava. Our first stop was the impressive teak monastery of Bagaya Kyaung, built in 1834 and supported by 267 teak posts. It is a beautiful and peaceful place where the eerie sound of the creaking wood takes you back to a place in time that is long gone. Next we rode to the brick and stucco monastery of Aungmye Bonzan built in 1818. The bright yellow and white monastery stood out against a backdrop of brilliant blue sky. Beneath the monastery is a maze of tunnels, to whose cooling shadows we escaped for a small reprieve from the harsh rays of the sun. The change in temperature was immediate and very welcome but we still had more to see. So, like cats on a hot tin roof we made our way back to our lovely air-conditioned car. Our last stop for the day was Amarapura, once known as the city of Immortality and best known for the U Bein's bridge. It spans 1,200 metres across Taungthaman lake and is the world's longest teak bridge. Built by the mayor of Amarapura from teak posts salvaged during the uprooting of the capital to Mandalay. It is an impressive structure which yet again transports you back to a yesteryear where life appeared much simpler. Its appearance from a distance belies its current fragility. It was once accessible to bicycles and motorbikes but now to protect and keep the bridge intact, only pedestrian access is allowed. We walked across, taking in the view of the lake whilst treading very carefully over the ominous gaps between the wooden boards. Our guide arranged a boat ride which offered a different viewpoint of the bridge. At sunset we sat in awe as the changing light shimmered in the lake casting beautiful reflections of the bridge. Watching the people walk over the bridge as the sky became orange and then change to the blue and purple hues of twilight was absolutely breath-taking. It had been a full and tiring day of sightseeing and as we drove back to the hotel we were in a state of wonder. It had been an amazing day and to top it off we went back to the Spice Garden for another delicious dinner.

The next morning we drove to a hill station called Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo) to escape the heat of Mandalay. Along the way we stopped at a flower market located on the side of the road. There was stall upon stall of flowers of different varieties with lovely vibrant colours. Huge bunches were bound together and transported via motorbike. Seen on the road, you could easily mistake it as a vision of a bright and colourful floral carpet. All along the road side were loads of fruit and vegetable markets selling wares from Myanmar and China. The produce was so fresh and tropical. The impressive crates of dragon fruit resembled stage props, rather than anything you would consider consuming. Once we arrived at Pyin Oo Lwin we visited a bustling food market. Our senses were assaulted with the loud chatter of people and the intense sights and smells. It was like an explosion of colour. Everywhere you looked there were items that enticed and others that repelled. It was an eclectic mix of wares all housed under one roof, with narrow pathways to negotiate. After our sensory overload we visited a collection of colonial villas and houses by horse drawn cart. The town's colonial past is very evident especially with our mode of transport. Nowadays locals prefer more modern alternatives, leaving the horse and cart to the visiting tourists. We also stopped at a colourful and brightly decorated Chinese temple built by Yunnanese immigrants. It is a stark contrast to the sometimes austere and muted tones of the places of worship in Europe. The next stop was the Pwe Kaug Falls (B.E falls). It is a place of relaxation and fun for visiting locals and groups of people can be seen swimming and enjoying their days out. As the only tourists there we were definite subjects of interest and as a result we received many requests to pose for photos. It seemed only fair so we willingly obliged. I just really hope there aren't any strange u-tube videos circulating the net. Our last port of call for the day was the Kandawgyi botanical gardens. It is very reminiscent of the Kew Gardens in the U.K. Situated 1,098 metres above sea level and located in 1.8 square kilometres of grounds. It was established in 1915 by Alex Rodger and is a beautiful maintained green oasis with an abundance of bird life and many species of flowers and plants. It is a great open space and there are plenty of spots to choose from to sit back, unwind and reflect. It had been another busy day and once we got back to the hotel we paid another visit to old faithful. The Spice Garden was becoming a very firm favourite, perfectly located right on our doorstep.

Today is our last full day in Mandalay and after breakfast we began with a visit to the local jade market which hosts up to 40,000 people at its peak. It is packed to the rafters with wholesalers, jewellers and locals all looking for something special. It is an impressionable sight, densely populated with people and not the most ideal locations if you suffer from claustrophobia. It was interesting to see the jade at its various stages of production, from great big slabs of original stone to ready-made bracelets, all costing an arm and a leg. For some of the buyers it was another serious day at the office as they expertly inspected the jade with their flashlights, determining the right colour, grain and texture. For us it was a visual feast and a small insight into the popularity of this precious stone. Next we went to the railway bazar where locals ply their trade on the railroad track, scattering every time a train comes. This happens about three times a day and is fascinating to watch. The whole place is a hive of activity and although we were standing on the side lines intrusively taking photos, the whole experience felt completely authentic. Being in the thick of it, amongst the locals gave us a genuine impression of how people really go about their daily lives. After the hustle and bustle of the market we were confronted with our next means of transportation. We tried in vain to gracefully jump into our individual cyclos, which for us westerners is not the most comfortable of experiences. I know the idea of the cyclos was meant to be an informative look back into history, but as we were driving through the back streets of Mandalay we couldn't wait to plant our feet onto terra firma. Once we arrived at the Shwenandaw Temple, we handsomely tipped our drivers for their exhausting efforts. The temple is also known as the Golden Palace and is a beautiful teak structure built by King Thibaw Min in 1880. It was once part of the royal palace at Amarapura, before it was moved to Mandalay. For a last taste of local life we went to a busy and popular tea shop and enjoyed a cup of sweet tea (minus the sugar) and a bowl of delicious noodle soup. We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying foot massages and facials at our hotel. It felt great to relax and unwind after our hectic sightseeing schedule over the last week. In the evening we had our final supper at the Spice Garden and spent the rest of the evening fondly looking back at the amazing holiday we've just had.

We have been completely beguiled by Myanmar, with its towering gilded pagodas, spectacular archaeological sites and fascinating traditional culture. Sadly it was time to go but as we said our goodbyes we were already formulating a plan for our return. The genuine warmth and hospitality of the Burmese was overwhelming and added to our sense of wonder and amazement for this beautiful country. We left Myanmar in the midst of an important election. It is a country hoping to change its political landscape in order to provide a brighter future for its people. Change will come, our only hope is that it will be desired by all.